Oil painting is about as dangerous as cleaning your bathtub. Both involve using a few chemicals that, with reasonable precautions, any intelligent adult can handle without hazard. Artists, however, get a little excitable sometimes and either way overstate the dangers involved or ignore them.
First, the oil in oil paint is natural and non-toxic. I’ve seen people on internet forums say that they are switching to acrylic because they’re concerned about the toxicity of oils. That’s funny, because oil is less toxic than the acrylic polymer emulsion used to bind acrylic paint. All of the different kinds of oils (linseed, walnut, poppyseed, safflower) can be found in health food stores (linseed oil is also called flax seed oil). They are edible and have a pleasant, mild odor.
Pigments are, with a few exceptions, the same from one kind of paint to another. Some of them are mildly or moderately hazardous to ingest and some of them are, basically, dirt. Cadmium colors are used in most varieties of paint, including acrylic and watercolor—they’re very bad to eat. You can, if you choose, get a few pigments in oil that are particularly bad to ingest, but you have to seek those out. They include flake white, genuine vermilion, genuine Naples yellow, and lead tin yellow. However, the same reasonable precautions that you should use with other paints—which I’ll describe shortly—will also keep you safe if you choose to use these specialty pigments. There are also some paint additives, such as cobalt drier, black oil, Maroger’s medium, and lead napthenate, that contain substances that are hazardous to consume.
I’d like to particularly mention lead, because some artists may be confused by what they see on the local TV news. The problems that arise with leaded interior house paint are not relevant to making art unless you plan to let children eat your paintings (I would strongly recommend against this). Lead is hazardous if it enters your bloodstream, but if you are careful, that’s very unlikely. It doesn’t penetrate skin. It won’t hurt you unless you eat it, breathe lead powder, rub it in your eyes, or fail to duck if someone tries to shoot you with lead bullets. Paint, mediums, and driers containing lead don’t give off toxic fumes. Although it may be wise to avoid dry lead pigment (as well as other hazardous pigments in powder form), prepared materials containing lead can be quite useful.
I do recommend that pregnant and nursing women have nothing to do with materials containing lead, cadmium, or mercury. That doesn’t mean there is any reason to give up oil painting, just that you should avoid certain pigments.
The colorless pigments added to oil paint as extenders, such as alumina stearate or blanc fixe, are not something I’d put on my breakfast cereal, but neither are they particularly toxic. Nor are the resins or waxes a few companies include in their paint formulations.
No matter what pigments you work with, you need to make sure that you don’t ingest paint. That means that you must develop safe and consistent work habits. Never put brushes in your mouth. Never touch your face or hair while painting. Don’t eat, drink, or smoke while painting. Use disposable gloves if you have cuts on your hands. Make sure your workspace has good ventilation. Wash your hands (including under your fingernails) and all of your tools thoroughly after painting. Clean up your work area when you are done. And always make sure that painting materials are inaccessible to children and pets.
Solvents such as spirits of turpentine, mineral spirits, denatured alcohol, and oil of spike should be used with some care. Because they are volatile and evaporate quickly, use them in areas with good ventilation. They are potentially flammable, so don’t allow open flames where solvents are being used. Some people are very sensitive to the smell of spirits of turpentine. Good quality artist’s turps (I like the stuff from Winsor-Newton) are more expensive, but smell a lot better than the awful stuff you get in hardware stores. Keep any container with solvents covered when not in use—don’t have jars of medium or brush washing solvent just sitting open when you paint. Instead, keep the jar closed when you’re not using it and don’t leave brushes sitting in solvent—it’s not good for them anyway. Odorless mineral spirits and some other thinners don’t have a noticeable smell, but don’t be careless with those, either. They can cause headaches (which you might not ascribe to a substance without a smell) and some people (including me) have skin sensitivities to them.
If you develop a sensitivity to solvent fumes, the first thing to do is make sure you have adequate ventilation and are exposed to only very small amounts at a time. If the problem persists, you’ll need to stop using that solvent. If you find that you are sensitive to all of the volatile solvents used in oil painting, you may need to switch to a painting process that avoids solvents altogether. If you are sensitive to solvents, it is possible to use oil paint without them (some oil paint brands are easier to use unmodified than others—try Studio Products, Doak, or M. Graham). You can buy a jug of cheap linseed oil and clean up with that. You can use it to wipe your brushes as well (wash with soap and water afterward). You can avoid thinning your paint, or just add a touch of oil.
One rare but potentially severe hazard with oil painting is spontaneous combustion. Drying oils, under rare circumstances, can generate enough heat when drying (oxidizing) to catch on fire. That’s not a concern on the surface of a painting or in a closed container, but in a closed space that allows oxygen to enter, such as a trash bin, a pile of rags or paper towels soaked in oil or oil paint can combust. It is best to either have a fire retardant trash can, or throw rags into a container half full of water. I sometimes allow painting rags to collect in in the open on a counter. When it’s time to throw them away I put them into a plastic grocery bag, soak them in water, and put them into the trash for pickup the next day.
If you are one of those rare artists who makes their own paint by working with powdered pigments, then always use a dust mask, even with pigments that are only powdered earths. You only ever get one set of lungs.
I think that’s it. Use reasonable and sensible precautions, and don’t worry.
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please can you tell me if all powder pigments have the same properties in them that is the powder pigments you mix to make paint
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please let me know if powder pigments all have the same chemicals in them
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You mention proper ventilation? What is the best way to accomplish this? I’m especially interested in how to paint during winter — when I don’t want my windows open — without a bit loopy from fumes.
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Again, I too am interested in proper ventilation. My daughter developed chemical bronchitis at her art school. She had been painting with oils for six weeks in her classroom/studio when this occurred. The college claims it has “adequate ventilation,” but I am not sure what that really is. I would think it would be some mechanism that is always on to pull out any harmful chamical toxins from the air. What do you think is the the best way to accomplish this?
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A great article. One thing you don’t discuss as a possible solution to rid an area of airborne solvents, is air filtration rather than ventilation. In some situations ventilation is the best solution. In other situations filtration is better, for example if one would be venting expensive heated or air conditioned air. Also, many people don’t want to ventilate in a populated area where they would be venting volatiles into someone else’s space.
We make a studio air filtration system (Artist’s Air) designed for artists, and there are others who sell air filtration systems that one could use. You might look into them. -
Pingback from Room ventilation for safe oil painting on 20 July 2009 at 9:19 AM
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Trying water-miscible oils off and on, with open doors to garden and ceiing fan and studio air cleaner gadget, and in addition to smell bugging family, whenever I paint my sinuses go beserk, sometimes w severe headache. I gave up stuff called "Turpenoid Natural" for helping to clean goofs on canvas w brush, rag, or q-tip but I do like to use Windsor Newton fast-dry medium, or occasionally stand oil for water-mix oils if I need flow> Was almost going to go pop for a whole set of acrylics and sacrifice the look and medium I really like the look of on canvas when I saw your website. I use non-toxic liquid or solid brush cleaner along w a soapy water second step and finish w a swish in plain water. I dispose of everything in a tightly capped gallon paint can filled w water.
Help. Feel like clothespin on my nose all week while trying to work an hour a day or so and hopelessly in love w oils having gone back to them from watercolor hobby. Last, I think the fast-dry agent may be alkyd. How does anyone safely use that if it is? Thank you so much. Claire -
Try M Graham's Walnut Alkyd… Really safe, totally NON TOXIC, you can use the walnut for for cleaning brushes (harmless) and I understand also as a thinner. His paints are made from walnut base aswell… bingo!
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As to the skin being absorbant, there is the case of the film "Charlie and the Chocolate Factory." Where the girl who played Violet Beauregarde, who ate a prototype chewing gum,
and turned into a blueberry, as daft as that may sound, the makeup artists had to paint her blue, she washed it off after the filming, and a day or so later it came back as she had absorbed it, and again she washed it off, but it came back a day later. You may not like to hear that, but it is true. -
When painting I use the Artist's Bottle to hold my medium. It's a plastic bottle that is specially made to be resistant to turpentine/mineral spirits (regular plastic warps and cracks). The flip top lid is cool because I can drip it onto the palette instead of worrying about cleaning my brush to dip it into a jar etc. and also since there's the flip top lid, there's less fumes and evaporation.
http://www.kinsandco.com/Products/Art/ArtistsBott... -
Hello David,
Thank you for the helpful information about painting without solvents using linseed oil. I am going to try this and experiment with egg tempera under-painting. I am trying to piece your advice together with other research on pigments. I guess the main question for myself is, how much risk do you want to take and how careful can you trust yourself to be? (I sometimes forget which cup has coffee and which one has watercolor water!) It is very bewildering to read about the toxicity of pigments, and then read their health labeling which sometimes claims “non-toxic.” What pigments are used by crayola and in poster paints for children? Do high quality water colors use the same chemical pigments as oil paint?
I am also a house-painter and have recently been doing a lot of web research on the safety of paints, acrylic emulsions and VOCs and all that. It is really bewildering because obviously some VOCs are fine and occur naturally, and some are not. I have yet to discover what exactly is hazardous about acrylic polymer emulsion even though I know it is (I don’t always feel good after painting all day…). My question about acrylics is this: commerical paints smell bad (VOCs) and are environmental hazards; Why do artists’ acrylics have no odor? Are they made without the harmful chemicals? Do they also have VOCs or are they just toxic by ingestion? Thanks.Bethany
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Acrylic Polymer Emulsions have a few extra ingredients that are toxic. If you look up MSDS for Golden Acrylics, you’ll see ammonia and formaldehyde listed.
Ammonia helps keep the acrylic polymers fluid, and formaldehyde is used a a preservative (water based emulsions can make happy homes for bacteria/mold…even if plastic based).
As to why water based “latex” house paints smell more, its mainly because you end up using so much more to cover huge surface areas. There are some extra things in the acrylic paint for houses (mainly anti-fungal additives) which may also contribute.
If you get a good layer of artist acrylics on a big canvas, you will certainly notice the smell then. Not quite the same odor as house paint, but similar.
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Hi, sorry to interrupting.. Regarding to ventilation, would it be wise to do oil-painting(provided that i followed all safety regulations) in my bedroom? I do not have any other space to do oil painting :(
Thanks!
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Hi David!
Thanks a lot for this article. I’m just about to start painting with oil and am very excited. However, i am doing it in a small room in my home. I’m going to open the window and also use a face mask because i’m using cadmiums and am a bit nervous. Is that enough for ventilation?
My other question is that i’m going to be using Refined Linseed Oil as a medium. I understand about rags, but will anything else possibly combust? Such as the painting itself? Or brushes? Or left out paints (i plan to cover the palette up w/ plastic wrap to re-use them later.) I think you said it wouldn’t unless in a trash can, etc. Maybe these are stupid questions but i would rather not put my family or myself at risk and am trying to take all the necessary safety precautions w/out freaking out so much that i don’t paint at all….thanks in advance!!
Best,
Heather

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