Skip to content


Studio safety and oil painting

Oil paint­ing is about as dan­ger­ous as clean­ing your bath­tub. Both involve using a few chem­i­cals that, with rea­son­able pre­cau­tions, any intel­li­gent adult can han­dle with­out haz­ard. Artists, how­ever, get a lit­tle excitable some­times and either way over­state the dan­gers involved or ignore them.

First, the oil in oil paint is nat­ural and non-toxic. I’ve seen peo­ple on inter­net forums say that they are switch­ing to acrylic because they’re con­cerned about the tox­i­c­ity of oils. That’s funny, because oil is less toxic than the acrylic poly­mer emul­sion used to bind acrylic paint. All of the dif­fer­ent kinds of oils (lin­seed, wal­nut, pop­py­seed, saf­flower) can be found in health food stores (lin­seed oil is also called flax seed oil). They are edi­ble and have a pleas­ant, mild odor.

Pig­ments are, with a few excep­tions, the same from one kind of paint to another. Some of them are mildly or mod­er­ately haz­ardous to ingest and some of them are, basi­cally, dirt. Cad­mium col­ors are used in most vari­eties of paint, includ­ing acrylic and watercolor—they’re very bad to eat. You can, if you choose, get a few pig­ments in oil that are par­tic­u­larly bad to ingest, but you have to seek those out. They include flake white, gen­uine ver­mil­ion, gen­uine Naples yel­low, and lead tin yel­low. How­ever, the same rea­son­able pre­cau­tions that you should use with other paints—which I’ll describe shortly—will also keep you safe if you choose to use these spe­cialty pig­ments. There are also some paint addi­tives, such as cobalt drier, black oil, Maroger’s medium, and lead napthen­ate, that con­tain sub­stances that are haz­ardous to consume.

I’d like to par­tic­u­larly men­tion lead, because some artists may be con­fused by what they see on the local TV news. The prob­lems that arise with leaded inte­rior house paint are not rel­e­vant to mak­ing art unless you plan to let chil­dren eat your paint­ings (I would strongly rec­om­mend against this). Lead is haz­ardous if it enters your blood­stream, but if you are care­ful, that’s very unlikely. It doesn’t pen­e­trate skin. It won’t hurt you unless you eat it, breathe lead pow­der, rub it in your eyes, or fail to duck if some­one tries to shoot you with lead bul­lets. Paint, medi­ums, and dri­ers con­tain­ing lead don’t give off toxic fumes. Although it may be wise to avoid dry lead pig­ment (as well as other haz­ardous pig­ments in pow­der form), pre­pared mate­ri­als con­tain­ing lead can be quite useful.

I do rec­om­mend that preg­nant and nurs­ing women have noth­ing to do with mate­ri­als con­tain­ing lead, cad­mium, or mer­cury. That doesn’t mean there is any rea­son to give up oil paint­ing, just that you should avoid cer­tain pigments.

The col­or­less pig­ments added to oil paint as exten­ders, such as alu­mina stearate or blanc fixe, are not some­thing I’d put on my break­fast cereal, but nei­ther are they par­tic­u­larly toxic. Nor are the resins or waxes a few com­pa­nies include in their paint formulations.

No mat­ter what pig­ments you work with, you need to make sure that you don’t ingest paint. That means that you must develop safe and con­sis­tent work habits. Never put brushes in your mouth. Never touch your face or hair while paint­ing. Don’t eat, drink, or smoke while paint­ing. Use dis­pos­able gloves if you have cuts on your hands. Make sure your work­space has good ven­ti­la­tion. Wash your hands (includ­ing under your fin­ger­nails) and all of your tools thor­oughly after paint­ing. Clean up your work area when you are done. And always make sure that paint­ing mate­ri­als are inac­ces­si­ble to chil­dren and pets.

Sol­vents such as spir­its of tur­pen­tine, min­eral spir­its, dena­tured alco­hol, and oil of spike should be used with some care. Because they are volatile and evap­o­rate quickly, use them in areas with good ven­ti­la­tion. They are poten­tially flam­ma­ble, so don’t allow open flames where sol­vents are being used. Some peo­ple are very sen­si­tive to the smell of spir­its of tur­pen­tine. Good qual­ity artist’s turps (I like the stuff from Winsor-Newton) are more expen­sive, but smell a lot bet­ter than the awful stuff you get in hard­ware stores. Keep any con­tainer with sol­vents cov­ered when not in use—don’t have jars of medium or brush wash­ing sol­vent just sit­ting open when you paint. Instead, keep the jar closed when you’re not using it and don’t leave brushes sit­ting in solvent—it’s not good for them any­way. Odor­less min­eral spir­its and some other thin­ners don’t have a notice­able smell, but don’t be care­less with those, either. They can cause headaches (which you might not ascribe to a sub­stance with­out a smell) and some peo­ple (includ­ing me) have skin sen­si­tiv­i­ties to them.

If you develop a sen­si­tiv­ity to sol­vent fumes, the first thing to do is make sure you have ade­quate ven­ti­la­tion and are exposed to only very small amounts at a time. If the prob­lem per­sists, you’ll need to stop using that sol­vent. If you find that you are sen­si­tive to all of the volatile sol­vents used in oil paint­ing, you may need to switch to a paint­ing process that avoids sol­vents alto­gether. If you are sen­si­tive to sol­vents, it is pos­si­ble to use oil paint with­out them (some oil paint brands are eas­ier to use unmod­i­fied than others—try Stu­dio Prod­ucts, Doak, or M. Gra­ham). You can buy a jug of cheap lin­seed oil and clean up with that. You can use it to wipe your brushes as well (wash with soap and water after­ward). You can avoid thin­ning your paint, or just add a touch of oil.

One rare but poten­tially severe haz­ard with oil paint­ing is spon­ta­neous com­bus­tion. Dry­ing oils, under rare cir­cum­stances, can gen­er­ate enough heat when dry­ing (oxi­diz­ing) to catch on fire. That’s not a con­cern on the sur­face of a paint­ing or in a closed con­tainer, but in a closed space that allows oxy­gen to enter, such as a trash bin, a pile of rags or paper tow­els soaked in oil or oil paint can com­bust. It is best to either have a fire retar­dant trash can, or throw rags into a con­tainer half full of water. I some­times allow paint­ing rags to col­lect in in the open on a counter. When it’s time to throw them away I put them into a plas­tic gro­cery bag, soak them in water, and put them into the trash for pickup the next day.

If you are one of those rare artists who makes their own paint by work­ing with pow­dered pig­ments, then always use a dust mask, even with pig­ments that are only pow­dered earths. You only ever get one set of lungs.

I think that’s it. Use rea­son­able and sen­si­ble pre­cau­tions, and don’t worry.

Related post

Oil paint­ing with­out solvents

Posted in art materials, oil painting, painting.

Tagged with , , .


45 Responses

Stay in touch with the conversation, subscribe to the RSS feed for comments on this post.

  1. pamela liberto says

    please can you tell me if all pow­der pig­ments have the same prop­er­ties in them that is the pow­der pig­ments you mix to make paint

  2. pamela liberto says

    please let me know if pow­der pig­ments all have the same chem­i­cals in them

  3. David says

    Pamela,

    I’m not sure what you’re ask­ing. If they all had the same prop­er­ties, they would all be the same color. Each has a dif­fer­ent chem­i­cal makeup.

  4. Mark Bushnell says

    You men­tion proper ven­ti­la­tion? What is the best way to accom­plish this? I’m espe­cially inter­ested in how to paint dur­ing win­ter — when I don’t want my win­dows open — with­out a bit loopy from fumes. Thanks

  5. sbristol says

    Again, I too am inter­ested in proper ven­ti­la­tion. My daugh­ter devel­oped chem­i­cal bron­chi­tis at her art school. She had been paint­ing with oils for six weeks in her classroom/studio when this occurred. The col­lege claims it has “ade­quate ven­ti­la­tion,” but I am not sure what that really is. I would think it would be some mech­a­nism that is always on to pull out any harm­ful cham­i­cal tox­ins from the air. What do you think is the the best way to accom­plish this?

  6. David says

    sbris­tol,

    If your daugh­ter really wants to keep paint­ing in oil, it would help to know exactly what she is sen­si­tive to. Is it the oil in the paints or is it the sol­vents used to thin the paints? In many cases it’s the sol­vents. Just because min­eral spir­its have no smell, for exam­ple, does not mean your body can’t react to them. In order to keep using oil paint, one first step could be to switch to a solvent-free approach. That would not be pos­si­ble in a pub­lic stu­dio, but could work for her in a pri­vate space.

    On the other hand, if she’s react­ing to the oil in the paint (less likely, but pos­si­ble) then she might need to give up oil paints. It is pos­si­ble that paints made with wal­nut oil, such as those by M. Gra­ham, would be less problematic.

    The degree of ven­ti­la­tion is rel­a­tive, and “ade­quate” for most is clearly not suf­fi­cient for your daugh­ter in these spe­cific cir­cum­stances. The more air exchange that occurs, the bet­ter the ven­ti­la­tion. That means fans blow­ing air out of the room in a way that does not allow fumes to recir­cu­late (i.e., fumes are blown out­side). I’m by no means an expert on that sub­ject. It is cer­tainly pos­si­ble to cre­ate a pri­vate stu­dio with lots and lots of ven­ti­la­tion. That can get cold in the win­ter, though.

  7. Warren Riess says

    A great arti­cle. One thing you don’t dis­cuss as a pos­si­ble solu­tion to rid an area of air­borne sol­vents, is air fil­tra­tion rather than ven­ti­la­tion. In some sit­u­a­tions ven­ti­la­tion is the best solu­tion. In other sit­u­a­tions fil­tra­tion is bet­ter, for exam­ple if one would be vent­ing expen­sive heated or air con­di­tioned air. Also, many peo­ple don’t want to ven­ti­late in a pop­u­lated area where they would be vent­ing volatiles into some­one else’s space. We make a stu­dio air fil­tra­tion sys­tem (Artist’s Air) designed for artists, and there are oth­ers who sell air fil­tra­tion sys­tems that one could use. You might look into them.

  8. Kathleen Notman says

    While oil paints are non-toxic, I apply oil paint using the tip of my fin­ger as a tool. Is this safe?

  9. David says

    Kath­leen,

    So far as I know, yes it is. I paint with my fin­gers all the time, and I use sev­eral toxic pig­ments. I am very care­ful not to touch my face or hair while I’m paint­ing, and I wash my hands thor­oughly afterward.

    • Tom says

      Sorry to break in on this, but hell no… it is really not safe at all, a doc­tor friend of mine was explain­ing how much we can absorb chem­i­cals through the skin, we are really like sponges… Yikes really dan­ger­ous with regard to Cad­mi­ums, lead white, and many more!

      • David Rourke says

        Tom,

        It’s nice that you know a guy, but there’s lots of con­flict­ing infor­ma­tion from reli­able sources such as MSDS forms from many man­u­fac­tur­ers, a num­ber of books on art mate­ri­als, etc. The skin’s func­tion is to pre­vent tox­ins from get­ting through. While it is hardly per­fect at that task, com­par­ing it to a sponge just doesn’t make sense. There are chem­i­cals that can be absorbed through the skin, of course, but those are not present in sig­nif­i­cant quan­ti­ties in oil paint.

        That’s what I’ve dis­cov­ered from lots of research. You should, of course, make deci­sions on the best infor­ma­tion you think you have.

        • Tim says

          Do not paint with your fin­gers directly. The heavy ele­ments within the paints can over time be absorbed into your skin (which is in fact a semi-permeable layer, but cer­tainly no sponge) and have adverse effects on your body. Of course this is all over time, noth­ing imme­di­ate will occur except for some aller­gic reac­tions, if at all. Please, if you want to actu­ally live to be 90 do NOT paint with your fin­gers directly! Even if using acrylics it’s not the best idea, there are trace amounts of ammo­nia and formalde­hyde released when the paint dries, and the cad­mi­ums, chromi­ums, etc. can and still will be absorbed with over exposure.

          Do NOT paint with your skin directly!

  10. Claire says

    Try­ing water-miscible oils off and on, with open doors to gar­den and cei­ing fan and stu­dio air cleaner gad­get, and in addi­tion to smell bug­ging fam­ily, when­ever I paint my sinuses go beserk, some­times w severe headache. I gave up stuff called “Turpenoid Nat­ural” for help­ing to clean goofs on can­vas w brush, rag, or q-tip but I do like to use Wind­sor New­ton fast-dry medium, or occa­sion­ally stand oil for water-mix oils if I need flow> Was almost going to go pop for a whole set of acrylics and sac­ri­fice the look and medium I really like the look of on can­vas when I saw your web­site. I use non-toxic liq­uid or solid brush cleaner along w a soapy water sec­ond step and fin­ish w a swish in plain water. I dis­pose of every­thing in a tightly capped gal­lon paint can filled w water.
    Help. Feel like clothes­pin on my nose all week while try­ing to work an hour a day or so and hope­lessly in love w oils hav­ing gone back to them from water­color hobby. Last, I think the fast-dry agent may be alkyd. How does any­one safely use that if it is? Thank you so much. Claire

    • David Rourke says

      Claire,

      It may be that oil paint is not going to work for you, if you have a sen­si­tiv­ity to the oil rather than to the mate­ri­als asso­ci­ated with oil paint­ing. You might want to try paints ground in wal­nut oil, such as those made by M. Gra­ham, as you may find that you don’t have the same sen­si­tiv­ity to wal­nut as to lin­seed. Other oils that paints may be ground in include poppy and saf­flower oil.

      If that just doesn’t work, you could try the newer acrylic paints that have a longer open time than “tra­di­tional” acrylics. If I couldn’t work in oils, I would switch to egg tem­pera, myself.

      Good luck!

  11. Tom says

    Try M Graham’s Wal­nut Alkyd… Really safe, totally NON TOXIC, you can use the wal­nut for for clean­ing brushes (harm­less) and I under­stand also as a thin­ner. His paints are made from wal­nut base aswell… bingo!

    • David says

      Tom,

      Haven’t tried the wal­nut alkyd. As I men­tioned to Claire, it sounds like her prob­lem is with the paints them­selves. Lin­seed oil is non-toxic (you can buy it in health food stores—they call it flax seed oil).

      Wal­nut oil is no more or less toxic (and also avail­able in health food stores). Some peo­ple have a sen­si­tiv­ity to the smell of one or both of them. If she’s not sen­si­tive to wal­nut oil, then the Gra­ham medium may work fine. If she is sen­si­tive to it, then it will prob­a­bly cause her just as many problems.

  12. Tom says

    As to the skin being absorbant, there is the case of the film “Char­lie and the Choco­late Fac­tory.” Where the girl who played Vio­let Beau­re­garde, who ate a pro­to­type chew­ing gum,
    and turned into a blue­berry, as daft as that may sound, the makeup artists had to paint her blue, she washed it off after the film­ing, and a day or so later it came back as she had absorbed it, and again she washed it off, but it came back a day later. You may not like to hear that, but it is true.

    • David Rourke says

      Tom,

      I’ll be sure to keep that in mind the next time some­one asks if they can cover my whole body in the­atri­cal makeup. Not sure whether such anec­do­tal sto­ries have any applic­a­bil­ity to what hap­pens if you get a bit of paint on the tip of a fin­ger, however.

  13. Conan says

    When paint­ing I use the Artist’s Bot­tle to hold my medium. It’s a plas­tic bot­tle that is spe­cially made to be resis­tant to turpentine/mineral spir­its (reg­u­lar plas­tic warps and cracks). The flip top lid is cool because I can drip it onto the palette instead of wor­ry­ing about clean­ing my brush to dip it into a jar etc. and also since there’s the flip top lid, there’s less fumes and evap­o­ra­tion. http://​www​.kin​sandco​.com/​P​r​o​d​u​c​t​s​/​A​r​t​/​A​r​t​i​s​t​s​B​ott…

  14. Bethany says

    Hello David,

    Thank you for the help­ful infor­ma­tion about paint­ing with­out sol­vents using lin­seed oil. I am going to try this and exper­i­ment with egg tem­pera under-painting. I am try­ing to piece your advice together with other research on pig­ments. I guess the main ques­tion for myself is, how much risk do you want to take and how care­ful can you trust your­self to be? (I some­times for­get which cup has cof­fee and which one has water­color water!) It is very bewil­der­ing to read about the tox­i­c­ity of pig­ments, and then read their health label­ing which some­times claims “non-toxic.” What pig­ments are used by cray­ola and in poster paints for chil­dren? Do high qual­ity water col­ors use the same chem­i­cal pig­ments as oil paint? I am also a house-painter and have recently been doing a lot of web research on the safety of paints, acrylic emul­sions and VOCs and all that. It is really bewil­der­ing because obvi­ously some VOCs are fine and occur nat­u­rally, and some are not. I have yet to dis­cover what exactly is haz­ardous about acrylic poly­mer emul­sion even though I know it is (I don’t always feel good after paint­ing all day…). My ques­tion about acrylics is this: com­mer­i­cal paints smell bad (VOCs) and are envi­ron­men­tal haz­ards; Why do artists’ acrylics have no odor? Are they made with­out the harm­ful chem­i­cals? Do they also have VOCs or are they just toxic by inges­tion? Thanks.

    Bethany

    • David says

      Bethany,

      I agree that if you have trou­ble main­tain­ing con­sis­tent stu­dio safety habits, you should be extra care­ful in decid­ing which mate­ri­als you will work with.

      I’m afraid that I don’t know much about latex house paint. There a num­ber of ways to make “acrylic” paints, so one type is not nec­es­sar­ily com­pa­ra­ble to another.

    • Alex says

      Acrylic Poly­mer Emul­sions have a few extra ingre­di­ents that are toxic. If you look up MSDS for Golden Acrylics, you’ll see ammo­nia and formalde­hyde listed.

      Ammo­nia helps keep the acrylic poly­mers fluid, and formalde­hyde is used a a preser­v­a­tive (water based emul­sions can make happy homes for bacteria/mold…even if plas­tic based).

      As to why water based “latex” house paints smell more, its mainly because you end up using so much more to cover huge sur­face areas. There are some extra things in the acrylic paint for houses (mainly anti-fungal addi­tives) which may also contribute.

      If you get a good layer of artist acrylics on a big can­vas, you will cer­tainly notice the smell then. Not quite the same odor as house paint, but similar.

  15. Boo says

    Hi, sorry to inter­rupt­ing.. Regard­ing to ven­ti­la­tion, would it be wise to do oil-painting(provided that i fol­lowed all safety reg­u­la­tions) in my bed­room? I do not have any other space to do oil painting :(

    Thanks!

    • David says

      Boo,

      So long as you have good ven­ti­la­tion, I don’t see why not. Some peo­ple are sen­si­tive to the smell of dry­ing oils; if you get headaches or other symp­toms, you might need to change your approach.

      • Boo says

        Hi David,

        Thanks for the fast reply. I have read more about oil-painting with­out using any sol­vent and I had bought lin­seed oil and puri­fied poppy oil too, hop­ing that I can avoid tur­pen­tines as much as pos­si­ble. Im sure that there is advan­tage of using sol­vent but I guess start­ing with­out sol­vent is not that bad either. I just wanna have fun doing oil painting!

        Cheers!

  16. Heather says

    Hi David!

    Thanks a lot for this arti­cle. I’m just about to start paint­ing with oil and am very excited. How­ever, i am doing it in a small room in my home. I’m going to open the win­dow and also use a face mask because i’m using cad­mi­ums and am a bit ner­vous. Is that enough for ventilation?

    My other ques­tion is that i’m going to be using Refined Lin­seed Oil as a medium. I under­stand about rags, but will any­thing else pos­si­bly com­bust? Such as the paint­ing itself? Or brushes? Or left out paints (i plan to cover the palette up w/ plas­tic wrap to re-use them later.) I think you said it wouldn’t unless in a trash can, etc. Maybe these are stu­pid ques­tions but i would rather not put my fam­ily or myself at risk and am try­ing to take all the nec­es­sary safety pre­cau­tions w/out freak­ing out so much that i don’t paint at all….thanks in advance!!

    Best, Heather

  17. mother nature says

    Ok, BUT—- you are still using by-products of the OIL indus­try and heavy met­als. Toxic to YOU or not, where are you pour­ing your refuse? Where is that going? The land­fill? Just out­side some­where? Do you real­ize you sup­port the oil indus­try by using these mate­ri­als. I agree, acrylic is worse, smells awful, and dries way too fast. I found another way, and so did oth­ers. But since you sup­port big oil, enjoy yourself!

    • David says

      Mother,

      Big oil? Do you think Exxon and BP sell lin­seed oil? Do you have any idea where the mate­ri­als used as binders for oil paint come from? Please find a clue some­where before you troll art blogs post­ing ran­dom critiques.

  18. Veronica says

    As an artist mar­ried to a physi­cian, I will also have to dis­agree Tom and hope other artists lis­ten­ing con­sider this; our skin is a large sponge which absorbs so many of the tox­ins we put on the skin, and fil­ter them to the blood stream and other organs. If you want health advice ask a health pro­fes­sional. If you want art advice…..ask an artist.

    Respect­fully, Veronica

  19. cleye says

    Just to be clear…what exactly is the com­bustible mat­ter? The paint itself ( which is just oil and pig­ment) or the solvent?

    Are rags that are soiled with paint going to com­bust if piled together? Or do the rags have to have sol­vent on them too?

    Some­one told me that a safe way to treat sol­vent soaked rags is to wet the rags down with water because the sol­vent on them will evap­o­rate faster than the water. Any wis­dom to that?

    thanks!

  20. Elizabeth says

    Hello, My expe­ri­ence has been that the alkyd dri­ers in the wal­nut oil not only don’t help with the dry­ing that much, they also give me a headache. I have started using cold pressed lin­seed oil with no dry­ers. This has worked so far. Don’t use paints with cad­mium or lead. Risk­ing your health is absolutely not worth it. There are non­toxic alter­na­tives out there, just look for red and yel­low paints with non­toxic labels. If you don’t start using paints with heavy met­als, you will never have to switch and you will never miss them.
    Always paint with a win­dow open. Thin plas­tic dis­pos­able gloves are very cheap. Wear them! Non­toxic does not mean edi­ble. They still emit fumes and must be used with care.
    Happy Paint­ing, Mom

  21. leonard pinto says

    I have been paint­ing using oil paints mfg. by cam­lin India & some­times by Win­sor & New­ton for the last 12 years. In the last four years I have noticed feel­ing sick in the stom­ach, a feel­ing of wind accu­mu­lat­ing an unwell for a few days. This is not a coin­ci­dence and I quite sure about it. I reduced paint­ing and now paint occas­sion­ally. I ask for your advice because I am very care­ful not to suck on the brush or stain my fin­gers with paint. I use a cloth to squeeze out the paints and I usu­ally work with paint with­out dilut­ing. rgds. Leonard pinto mobile num­ber 91 96320 98413

  22. Terri says

    So my cat sits likes to sit on the rafters in the area that is where I paint and she watches me paint almost every day. Today she must have got­ten curi­ous because she jumped right on top of the palate and imme­di­ately back off when she landed in the sqiushy oil paint. I have had this cat and this hobby for years and this is the first time it has hap­pened. She is an all white cat that now has one ivory black paw and one sap green paw. I’m very wor­ried about her because I know i cant stop her from lick­ing it and the color stuck very well to her white fur. Should I try to get her to drink milk like they do for kids in poi­son con­trol? How toxic are these paints? the black tube says it was made with lin­seed oil and charred ani­mal bone car­bon. the green says phtaloy­a­nine green pg7, ary­lamide yel­low gxpy73, and trans red iron oxide pr101

    • David says

      Terri,

      I have no idea. I think you should call a vet­eri­nar­ian right now.

  23. BASHEER KALATHIL says

    Thank you for giv­ing help­ful infor­ma­tion the safety pro­ce­dure of oil paint­ing . Being a safety offi­cer it is very vlue­ble to my profession !

  24. tony westbrook says

    read­ing Van­Gogh: ’ I sac­ri­fice my life for it’ That may be the defin­i­tive com­ment on paint­ing. as it can be dan­ger­ous both phys­i­cally and men­tally. But you do what you love doing, so don’t worry, be happy with the alchemy.

  25. Jamie says

    Thanks for the infor­ma­tion on oil paint­ing and the safety behind it. My sis­ter is actu­ally study­ing this so I will be send­ing her over this arti­cle. I find it very inter­est­ing, so I can imag­ine what she will think about it.

    Thanks for the cool information

    –Jamie

    • David says

      Jamie,

      My plea­sure. Glad you found it helpful.

      Please make sure your sis­ter knows to take any­thing found on the inter­net with a grain of salt, includ­ing here. There are lots of “experts” who don’t know what they are talk­ing about.

  26. Dawn says

    Hi: Our puppy acci­den­tally chewed a tube of Wind­sor New­ton Ivory Black. He didn’t get all of it but he did get some.
    Is it poi­sonus?
    I wiped his mouth with a wet washrag. Is there any­thing else I should do?
    He got it off of the table that is much taller than he is. Maybe the cat knocked it off for him.
    Thanks for an answer as we are wrecks now,
    Dawn

    • David says

      Dawn,

      I would not rec­om­mend ask­ing ques­tions like these of peo­ple on the inter­net you’ve never met. For all you know, I am a clue­less idiot who would tell you exactly the wrong thing.

      As it is, I will say that I have no idea. I would sug­gest you speak with a vet­eri­nar­ian. Sorry but this is not the kind of advice I have any busi­ness try­ing to provide.

      Best of luck,

      David

  27. David Rourke says

    Tom,

    You’re right. We’re just going to dis­agree on this one.

Continuing the Discussion

  1. Studio Safety and Intoxication « Images and Imagination linked to this post on 5 February 2008

    […] Foun­da­tion) Liq­ui­tex — Health & Safety Tox­ins in My Stu­dio (June 6, 2006), by Tracy Helge­son Stu­dio safety and oil paint­ing by David Rourke (Aug 10, 2006) VEHS–Van­der­bilt Safety links Stu­dio Safety-Ventilation and Design Ideas by Susan L.Moyer Poi­soned […]

  2. Room ventilation for safe oil painting linked to this post on 20 July 2009

    […] I found this and it gives pre­cau­tions for oil painters,but it doesnt men­tion if an open win­dow is enough ven­ti­la­tion or not. Stu­dio safety and oil paint­ing | All the Strange Hours […]



Some HTML is OK

or, reply to this post via trackback.