73% more convenient than regular oil paint!

There are several types of paint that are designed to be like oil paint, only less bother. All of them handle approximately like oil paint, and paintings made with them look pretty much like oil paintings. They include:

Alkyds: These are paints made with a synthetic resin instead of a natural drying oil. The chief advantage to alkyds is that they dry overnight, and all colors dry at the same rate. The big disadvantage is that (to me) they smell awful. The handling is also inferior to the handling of high quality oil paint. Paintings done in alkyds should be labeled as alkyd paintings, not oil paintings.

There are also alkyd mediums, such as Liquin, Galkyd, and Neo-Meglip, intended to be mixed with regular oil paints. That’s not what I’m talking about here.

Water miscible oil paints: These are oil paints made with a form of linseed oil that has been modified so that, when water is mixed in, it doesn’t separate. It is therefore possible to clean brushes in water rather than solvents, clean your palette with water, and so on. It is also possible to thin the paint with water, although manufacturers usually recommend against adding a whole lot of water. When mixed with water, the paint forms an emulsion (tiny droplets of water surrounded by oil), so the refraction index of the paint changes. That means that there is a noticeable shift in value; dark colors become a bit lighter. The paint returns to its normal value when the water evaporates away, making it difficult to judge values when painting (acrylic paint—another sort of emulsion—has the same problem). They take about as long to dry (oxidize) as regular oil paints. Water miscible oil paint can also be thinned with regular solvents, and manufacturers produce various mediums. They can even be mixed with regular oil paints, although no water should be added to such a mixture. Oil painters who try water miscible oils often find them to be kind of “sticky.” Because each formulation is different, it can be a bad idea to mix paints from different brands. The big advantage to water miscible paint is that cleanup is easier and, well, cleanup is easier. Because the oil is real oil, I don’t consider it unethical to label a painting made with water miscible oil paint as an “oil painting.” So you don’t have to try to educate buyers about a medium they’ve never heard of. Overall, though, I think water miscible paint is a solution in search of a problem.

Many people on internet art forums mistakenly refer to water miscible oil paint as “water soluble” oil paint: that’s not technically correct, any more than there is such a thing as water soluble olive oil. Many people who use the terms “water soluble” and “water miscible” as if they mean the same thing misspell “soluble” as “soluable.” I hate that in the depths of my pedantic little soul. Remember: “soluble” does not have an “a” in it.

Heat set “oil paints:” This is a line of paints marketed by one company: Genesis Artist Colors. I have not tried them. These are not actually oil paints, although the company describes them as “heat set artist oils” on their web site. The paints are instead ground in some sort of synthetic polymer that behaves rather like oil. It does not, however, dry by oxidation, the way oil paints do. In fact, it doesn’t ever dry until you heat it to a high temperature, at which point it sets permanently. So you can leave paint on your brushes as long as you want. You don’t ever have to clean your palette or brushes—the paint stays wet forever. When you want a painting to be dry, you use a special heat gun (sold by the Genesis company) or a special drying oven (sold by the Genesis company). You can use a regular oven, but eventually, of course, you’re going to get paint on the inside of the oven. You can’t use a hair dryer because it doesn’t get hot enough.

The big advantage of heat set paints is that you don’t have to worry about cleanup until you feel like it. When my son was born last week I left some oil paint on my palette: it’s now hard and will be a pain to scrape off. With heat set oils, that wouldn’t be a problem. Some artists also like to noodle around with wet oil paint for days. Heat set paints don’t dry until you tell them to. The disadvantage to heat set paints is that they are made by only one company, and they won’t say exactly how they are made. They claim the paint is archival, but you have to take their word for it.

Another disadvantage is that when you label one of these paintings, it would be a lie to say they are made with “oil paint.” I’m not sure what you should call them—“heat set paint,” maybe. I think its unethical for the company to call them “heat set artist oils,” because they are not oil paints, however much the finished product may look like an oil painting.

Marketing

All of these paints are marketed to hobbyists, who like the idea of oil painting, but want something less inconvenient. Each of them corrects some perceived flaw in oil paints: they take too long to dry, they dry when you don’t want them to, you have to clean up with smelly stuff, and so on. These kinds of “improvements” mostly appeal to hobbyists who want their hobby to be more convenient. That isn’t to say that there aren’t professional artists who use each of these types of paint, or that wonderful paintings aren’t made with them. But any company hoping to make a profit selling what I will call “convenience oils” has to market them to hobbyists. That means they have to be fairly inexpensive, so the quality of most of these paints is about equivalent to student-grade oil paint. In order to keep the price low enough that hobbyists will buy it, alternative pigments, cheaper grades of pigment, and extenders are used, just as with student grade oil paint. Certain pigments that are more toxic, such as lead white and genuine vermillion, aren’t manufactured in convenience lines of oil paint for the same reasons you don’t find such pigments in student grade paint: most hobbyist painters are afraid of toxic chemicals they don’t understand. It would be possible for companies to manufacture convenience oils with very high standards of quality, but that would be a bad business decision. (I am told that the water miscible paint made by Holbein is of fairly high quality, but I prefer not to use a type of paint made by only one company).

For that reason, I won’t use them. I like having access to the best grades of artist-quality oil paint. I like being able to use a wide range of traditional mediums that I can mix myself. I like having access to traditional pigments that have valuable properties but require particular care with regard to safety. And I like being part of a tradition of painting that goes back to the early Renaissance. While real oil paints can be inconvenient, none of the alternatives that have been developed are, to me, worth giving up the real thing.

Update 1:

I’d like to note that water miscible oil paint can be useful if you want to travel by air with a set of oil paints. Because they are easier to use without solvents (which they won’t let you travel with) water miscibles can be an alternative that is relatively hassle-free. If I were to do that, I would definitely buy the Holbein Duo Aqua oils, which I have heard good things about.

Update 2:

One other characteristic of alkyd paints that I forgot to mention is this: alkyds need more binder to a given amount of pigment than oil paints do. That means paint manufacturers can’t use as much pigment when making alkyd paints, so some colors don’t have the saturation and intensity of their oil equivalents. That’s not a failure on the part of manufacturers, but a characteristic of the alkyd medium.

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  1. David’s avatar

    David,

    Thanks for leaving such a long and thoughtful comment.

    Gamblin makes oil paints, as well as alkyd mediums for mixing with oil paints. That’s not what I was referring to when I was talking about alkyd paints, which are pigment mixed with an alkyd binding vehicle. I don’t think that alkyd paints should be labeled as oil paints. Gamblin’s oils, even when used with alkyd medium, should of course be labeled as oils.

    I can see your point about making emulsions with water-miscible oil paint; that hadn’t occurred to me. And I have no problem with the use of any paint marketed to hobbyists; I just think it’s useful to understand the art materials market and how it affects the economics of how those materials are made.

    As to the use of water-miscible paints by people with sensitivities to turps, I can understand that. If I had that level of sensitivity, I would personally just stop using turps and switch to a solvent-free painting process, rather than buying a new set of paints.

    I don’t know enough about the chemistry of detergents to say whether their use in the manufacture of water miscible paints would affect their longevity. I tend to be fairly conservative with these things, and I do think that water miscibles have not been around long enough to have demonstrated that they are suitable for paintings that are intended to be permanent, especially since every manufacturer seems to use a different formula.

    Thanks again.

    Reply

  2. David Clemons’s avatar

    David, I wanted to add some personal observations about your article on “convenience” oils. I have no feedback (or interest) in the heat-set, have a point about alkyds, and I do use water-miscible oils often.

    If I understand your point about alkyd paints correctly, you’re saying they only contain an alkyd resin and no oil; therefore, they should not be called oil paints. The one brand of alkyds I know of is Winsor & Newton’s Griffin, which they say is made from a naturally derived vegetable oil polymerized with alkyd. Gamblin makes alkyd mediums, but their paint they say is from “finest alkali refined linseed oil.” They also have a “quick dry white” that’s “oil modified alkyd resin.” So, there is oil in them; it’s just a modified oil, but that would still make it oil paint. From past experience, I can say the Griffin paint quality is poor, but Gamblin’s is good. There are reports of delamination in alkyd products that worry me, so I avoid them. Speed of drying is not a concern for me.

    Re: water-misibles, I use them often for mixing with water-based emulsions, such as methyl-cellulose. I find that having an oil which is already modified to work with water makes this process of painting much easier than using regular oils; although, I do use those as well to expand my color and quality of paint choices. As far as being marketed to “hobbyist,” that point is irrelevant to me. If the paint handles well and is of good quality, that’s the only issue. The convenience of cleaning with water is a bonus, but is of no major consequence. It would be like preferring fast-food because there’s no dishes to wash; it’s the food not the packaging that’s important. Also as you know, there are ways to limit or avoid using turpentine or OMS with regular oil use or clean-up, and that point should be made.

    There’s another point about turpentine use you don’t mention, and that’s the allergic reaction many people have when using it, which makes the water-miscibles a good option for them.

    As for the word “soluble,” I see your point. I often use the term when speaking to others who use it just so they know what I’m talking about. Water is not a solvent in this case, but then turp or OMS isn’t either; it’s a diluent.

    One last thing, some concern about water-miscible oils is the use of a detergent agent in them to make them mix with water, and how that could adversely affect their longevity. To the best of my research on this, that surfactant used is 2-Butoxyethanol, which is listed in the MSDS of W&N Artisan mediums. This is also used in latex paints, laquers, and varnishes commercially, as well as soaps and cosmetics. As to whether the other manufacturers like Grumbacher use that, I can’t say (and they won’t.) Only time will prove how it may or may not affect the paint.

    I’ve followed your comments on other forums and respect your opinions. They always seemed well researched and thorough. I just wanted to add my own perspectives here.
    -DBC

    Reply

  3. Jerry Monks’s avatar

    In regards to oil painting an dusing any solvent with Benzyne in it- stop immediately. I have lost three friends, pros who painted at least 5-10 hours 5-6 days a week, to acute luekemia the cause being their solvents that they either enhaled, or exposed their skin to.
    Best to use no solvent, or at least a solvent w/o benzyne. All turps, most turp substitutes include a benzyne component.
    Regards- J.Monks

    Reply

  4. David’s avatar

    Thanks Jerry.

    I know that some pros have been in the habit of sitting for hours with open containers of turps and medium. That’s a really, really bad idea. You can still buy those open medium cups for attaching to your palette (how are you supposed to keep from spilling the stuff?).

    I use turps (sometimes), but with good ventilation and with the container kept closed when I am not actually using it. My exposure is thereby three or four orders of magnitude less than if I just sat with an open container for hours at a time.

    Reply

  5. Giles Prodwit’s avatar

    I am allergic to the fumes/smell of oil paints themselves and turpentine. I have heard that they cause Non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma , so I have switched to acrylics and watercolor.

    Reply

  6. David’s avatar

    Giles,

    Your statement about lymphoma is new to me. If you are that sensitive to solvents and drying oils, then the switch is probably wise, although you should be aware that acrylics can also give off fumes that some people are sensitive to.

    Reply

  7. Louis R. Velasquez’s avatar

    Hi David, and hello Mr. Prodwit,
    Very interesting comment by Mr. Prodwit. Oil painting is a wonderful medium and artists who love it should not be prohibited from using it because of health reasons. There are many art materials that are hazardous to our health..just as they are also hazardous to the health of the painting itself.

    To your readers, David, who have not read my recent posts, I am the author of a self-published book, “Oil Painting with “Calcite Sun Oil”: Safety and Permanence without Hazardous Solvents, Resins, Varnishes and Driers”, available at my website. The information in the book regarding oil, and emulsions, and calcium carbonate … is based on the discoveries by scientists in the 1990’s who analyzed the paintings of Velazquez, Rembrandt, the Van eycks, and others.

    Since writing the book, …combining the recent scientific knowledge and on my own experiments and expierice as a painter, .. I have determined that persons like Mr. Prodwit, could use a method (choice of materials, excluding others) that is SAFE, permanent and so very simple. And, it allows the following: Easy blending…micro-fine details…extreme textures…transparent glazes ..scumbling… fast drying of thin paint film within 30 hours/which can easily be extended if desired….and as needed, a thixotropic quality allowing superimpoisition of wet on top of wet.

    Im not sure if Mr. Prodwit is saying he is allergic to the vapors of the paint’ itself, meaning oil and powder as it comes from the tube. Or, if its the paint once mixed with all the painting mediums made of mixtures of solvents, resins, varnishes and driers, which artists need to mix with the tube paint to make it behave.

    If the paint itself is not a culprit, then my methods can allow him to oil paint safely. Of course, one must read the entire label of the tube paints and buy only those that are non-toxic. My book only claims safety of linseed oil, calcium carbonate and egg glair. If a person is allergic to any of these three items, then, I cannot help with the issue of safety.

    sincerely..Louis R. Velasquez , http://www.calcitesunoil.com

    Reply

  8. Martin’s avatar

    Water miscible oil paints is easy to make. At least if you live in Sweden where a kind of soft soap made from vegetable oil (usually pine tree oil) is used as a traditionall all purpose cleaning agent. You simply mix a small amount with your ordinary oil paint and you get a faster drying water soluble paint. It has been in use for hundreds of years and this paint is said to be more resistant to aging then pure oil paint.

    I haven’t been able to find an english word for this kind of soap. In Sweden it’s called “sÃ¥pa” and there are two variaties: green (soap made from pine used to get this colour, but nowadays it’s artificially coloured) and yellow (without colour agents). If your lucky you can find one thats not pine scented (nowadays syntetic).

    Oh, and “sÃ¥pa” is unsurpassed when cleaning your brushes. It refattens your natural hair brushes if they got dried out from use of other solvents. When I paint I usually have a jar with “sÃ¥pa” and water, where I put my unclean brushes when not in use, to keep the paint from drying. When I need to get them clean I use undiluted “sÃ¥pa”. If the paint in your brush gets dry you have to use some other solvent,

    And it’s really cheap, near odourless, non allergic and non poisonous (it has been used as a laxative, but then you have drink a lot of it).

    Reply

    1. agnes’s avatar

      Hi Martin,

      could you give a simple rough "recipe" on how to mix natural soft soap - perhaps other vegetable derived soft soaps behave the same, would be worth experimenting? For example do you mix the soap with oil paint in a 1:1 ratio? Also as a medium do you use water or soap? Again, in what ratio to the oil paint? I am just completing a FA degree and am tired of using solvents but love oil paint. I am a biochemist and physiologist originally and aware of how dangerous organic solvents can be.
      Sure, you can be careful, but I'd rather not have to worry about it.

      Thanks,

      Agnes

      Reply

      1. davidrourke’s avatar

        Agnes,

        My name is David, actually. Not sure what you are asking about, as I don't suggest adding soap to paint. If you search on this site, you can find information on oil painting without solvents.

        Reply

  9. David’s avatar

    Martin,

    I don’t know if soap like this is available in the U.S.; I have definitely never heard of it being used for hundreds of years as an oil paint additive.

    Interesting. Thanks.

    Reply

  10. Martin’s avatar

    I know it’s available all around the globe. It seems that in other countries people dont make a distinction between “tvÃ¥l” and “sÃ¥pa”, which has different chemical properties.

    This kind of soap is a biproduct of industrial pulpwood manufacturing and has been cheaply available in Sweden for almost two decades. Before that the paint was made by pigment being ground in oil (usually linseed oil) saponified with pot ash or unprocessed ash from softwood (usualy from birch wood, different source of (pot) ash give different result), other substances (like chalk, urine, egg, beer and milk) was added depending on what pigments in use and purpose of the paint. Similar methods is used to produce products like W&N Artisan Oil Color today. But adding soap to ordinary oil paint gives better control, more avilable pigments, is cheaper and you usually get better durability.

    Similar paint has been used in folk art in most woodland countries. But because of high literacy among common people, compared to other countries, a lot of old Swedish recipes have been written down during history.

    I must confess I rather use egg as emulsifier. Egg yolk can be mixed directly into prefab oil paint to make a simple water soluble ue-tempera to use in leaner layers of an oil painting. But you get a slightly yellow shade to your wet paint that disappear after drying.

    Reply

  11. Joan’s avatar

    I just discovered your website by accident. What a gem!
    I’m a painting hobbyist …”artist wannna-be” and use Holbein aqua-oil (water-miscible oil)

    My question is about glazing.
    If I’ve done an underpainting and have then built up my painting from that…but want to glaze a part of the painting (possibly to push it back or add warm to a cooler area, or for whatever reason) …how do I make a glaze to do this, using this medium.

    Am I just diluting colour in medium or water and applying thinly..or doing something else?

    I can’t seem to find direction on this question. Any help appreciated!

    Reply

    1. David’s avatar

      @Joan -
      Joan,

      Glazing is not about medium, it’s about making the paint layer thin enough to interact optically with the layer below. Here’s a post on glazing.

      Good luck.

      Reply

  12. Stephen Hobbs’s avatar

    @David Clemons - I have actually discovered I am quite allergic to oil based paints, wether it’s the alkaloids, or turps I am not sure. For many years I even worked as a painter/decorator but it wasn’t until one night I awoke after falling asleep after cleaning an oil canvas with some turps I found the true extent. It has always made me feel slightly hyper-active (understandably). But I’d left a turps covered rag in the room. I soon found myself awaking to a similar experience to a panic attack. Heart racing and a blood pressure of 160/95 and a pulse of 98 felt like a damn heart attack. I went downstairs, stood outside and had a cigarette and a coffee which helped bring my problem under control then returned to room and found the offending article.

    I have since removed all my oil paints and thinner containers from the house and had no further problems.

    Reply

  13. David’s avatar

    Stephen,

    From your description, it sounds like you may have a sensitivity to aromatic solvents such as spirits of turpentine, not oil paints themselves.

    Here’s a post on oil painting without solvents:

    http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2006/12/29/oil-painting-without-solvents/

    You might want to give it a try.

    Reply

  14. Roderick’s avatar

    @Martin -

    Der Martin

    Could you confirm that you can take artists oils and mix them directly with egg ( i assume this would be wiyth the yolk)

    Thnak you Roderick

    Reply

  15. Koren’s avatar

    One thing bears saying here - solvents aren’t just ‘smelly’ or ‘inconvenient’ - in virtually all cases, they’re also toxic (I’m a chemical engineer, this happens to be my field.) I know this is why I was originally intersted in water-soluble oils. Turpentine has a health rating of ‘3’, which in common usage means ‘not good’. Since many painters are hobbyists or work from home, they don’t necessarily have special exhaust systems set up to evacuate harmful fumes. Every painter who works with solvents should at a minimum search the web for the MSDS of the chemical that they use, and be sure that they’re complying with the recommended handling practices. Same goes for toxic pigments. Personally, I would not use any paint with significant lead content, or even allow it near my home. But if you do use lead, cadmium, barium, cobalt, or manganese pigments virtually all of them are classified as ‘hazardous waste’ in the U.S., which means that even small amounts shouldn’t be disposed of in the trash or down the drain. Waste water treatment facilities aren’t set up to deal with that type of contamination. Hopefully most artists know these things, but I’ve come across several who don’t, and it’s easy to assume that because a product is sold for hobbyist use that it’s completely harmless. Nobody needs to poison themselves or create a mini-Superfund site with their hobby. ‘Nuff said.

    Reply

  16. Mel’s avatar

    In reference to your topic of Genesis Heat Set Artists Oils, I have used them for about 3 years and absolutely love them! They make the issue of toxicity non-existant, therefore I don’t even think about it, as I did before when using traditional oils and mediums. They are far more convenient and do not require as much attention as traditional oils. I have used them in the studio and plein air. I dry them with my heat gun or put them in my oven and in 10 minuets, I’m ready to paint some more. What would take several weeks to product in oil, I can do in a day. There is no downside. You can do exactly the same things with heat set oils as you can with traditional oils. If allergies are an issue, they are definitly worth a try, as they are completely certified as non-toxic. There are no issues with this paint. It is the future. They are certified officially “oil paint” and are the best quality of archival material. Do your research and see what you come up with. It’s not just for “hobbyist” or “crafters”. It’s the “big boy” stuff and you will know it in the future. I highly recommend it.

    Reply

  17. David’s avatar

    @Mel -

    Mel,

    I’ll stick with paints made of materials I understand. Oil paints cannot possibly be more toxic than heat set paints. Good luck with your choice.

    If you sell your paintings, how are they labeled? Do you say the medium is “Genesis Heat Set Oil Paint” or what?

    Reply

  18. Dana’s avatar

    I’m an artist and have developed a highly sensitive allergy to acrylics over the years. I’ve had to force myself to find a way to work in mixed media using the most harmless materials like colored pencils, water colors, torn paper and the like. I managed to find my style again but I would strongly recommend to any artist working with a potentially toxic material to take some simple precautions and avoid overexposure (prevention is key). I know it’s a pain - which is of course why I never did it - but just think of me and maybe you’ll crack open a window or two. :)

    Side note to Koren: I would be very interested to hear if - as a chemical engineer - you know of any common material among the following products: stick oil pastels, kid facepaint (the cheap-o kind they sell for Halloween as a 6 pack of colors) and even certain brands of lipstick. Occasionally I have the same slightly nauseous reaction to all of these (and only these) materials. There has to be a common ground. But I’m completely mystified.

    Reply

  19. David’s avatar

    @Dana -

    Dana,

    You seem to be one of those people with a sensitivity to many volatiles. It may not be any single substance. That’s a tough problem for a visual artist. If I had this problem, I’d probably focus on egg tempera.

    Good luck.

    Reply

  20. Dana’s avatar

    Yeah you’re probably right. Would be nice to narrow it down to a single culprit though. I will definitely look into egg tempera. Thanks for the tip.

    Reply