Identifying chroma
As with value and hue, the best way to identify chroma is in terms of relationships. How intense is the color you’re looking at compared with the intensity of other colors around it? Chroma can be hard to separate out from value; light colors sometimes look more intense than they are, and dark colors sometimes look less intense. You get better with practice.Bad chroma!
Enough with those bright orange skin tones already!
Working with low-chroma color
Reducing chroma with mixing complements
Other than yellow and violet, it is very helpful to experiment with, and memorize, pairs of complementary colors. As a general rule, if you want to dull down an intense color, choose a dull complement. Blues have mixing complements in the range of warm yellows, oranges, and middle reds. Middle and cool greens have mixing complements in the range from middle reds to violets. Warm greens have mixing complements among the violets. Some of my favorite mixing complements include raw sienna/ultramarine blue, viridian/pyrol ruby, Prussian blue/Venetian red, and ultramarine blue/raw umber. I expect that most artists develop a set of strongly preferred mixing complements.Reducing chroma with optical color mixing
Reducing chroma with white
Reducing chroma with grey
Reducing chroma with glazing
If you paint one color thinly over another color, you get an optical mixture. Blue glazed over yellow produces a green, for example. You can use this effect to reduce chroma, since an optical mixture is darker and duller than the colors that make it up. Michelangelo, for example, sometimes made a dark dull blue by glazing ultramarine over black.The browns and the brown-ish
Working with high-chroma color
OK,Simultaneous contrast
Munsell complements
Masstone and undertone
self portraitMaintaining chroma at high values
Maintaining chroma by glazing
One effective way to maintain chroma is by glazing. If you apply paint very thinly over white, you can get a higher chroma than you could by mixing that paint to the same value using white. And a transparent paint that is applied a little more thickly can be more chromatic at low values than you might be able to obtain with a mixture of the same hue.Tags: art technique, color
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It’s funny you mention that yellow and violet do not make effective compliments; my failed experiments in glazing fleshtones with those colors resulted in dirty, bruised-looking skin.
I have been having the most frustrating time trying to adjust initial yellow ochre glazes to the proper hue and chroma.
Accepting that there are no formulas, do you nonetheless have any recommendations for useful colors in glazing flesh tones?
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Historically, glazing of flesh tones has been with warm colors over a base layer of cool colors. For example, the Italian Renaissance technique, used by egg tempera painters and some later oil painters like Michelangelo, involved an initial layer of a cool green earth. (I say a cool because most green earths on the market today are olive colored.) Then the shadows were painted in with a dull mixed earth color. Over that, the parts of the skin that get a lot of blood flow (cheeks, nose, ears) were glazed with red. The final layer was light pink, applied so that the cool underlayers showed through.
A similar principle can be used with any cool underpainting for skin tones. I’ve done it with blue, for example, instead of green.
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Good article.
One teeny nitpick — a compliment is when I say, “I like your tie”, a complement refers to opposites on the color wheel — sorry, spelling errors bug me.
You don’t need to publish this comment, just edit your article and we will both be happy!

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