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	<title>Comments on: Art “experts” on the internet</title>
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	<link>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2007/04/16/art-experts-on-the-internet/</link>
	<description>Making and Thinking About Visual Art</description>
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		<title>By: David Rourke</title>
		<link>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2007/04/16/art-experts-on-the-internet/comment-page-1/#comment-9905</link>
		<dc:creator>David Rourke</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 17 May 2009 21:19:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2007/04/16/art-experts-on-the-internet/#comment-9905</guid>
		<description>&lt;p&gt;Louis,&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Louis,</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Louis R. Velasquez</title>
		<link>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2007/04/16/art-experts-on-the-internet/comment-page-1/#comment-9874</link>
		<dc:creator>Louis R. Velasquez</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 13 May 2009 01:37:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2007/04/16/art-experts-on-the-internet/#comment-9874</guid>
		<description>&lt;p&gt;Hi David, greetings to you and your readers.&lt;br /&gt;
Yes David, I am aware of NETIQUETTE. But allow me to say you are correct...I am not yelling. And I thiabnk you for your understanding. Its my habit to type with all caps because I never learned to type. I type with one finger. But I can type real fast....IF..I just use caps or lower case..and time is so short and precious. I will try not to use caps in the future on your blog. At the moment I am very short on time and tho I would like to respond to Ivan, I cant at the moment. Suffice to say I appreciate him sharing his  knowledge with all of us. Im sure Ivan is a sincere, dedicated, educated artist...much like you David. Thanks again. - Louis 
PS: Please see the new methods on cleansing the Unrefined Flax oil on my website. IT&#039;S FREE !!  Like Ivan, I have nothing to sell except knowledge, and authors deserve the fruits of their labors. As Abraham Lincoln said, &quot; An attorney is worth his time and knowledge&quot;. Oh yes, I do sell the finest Superior Linseed/Flax oil, but not to anyone or everyone.&lt;/p&gt;
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi David, greetings to you and your readers.<br />
Yes David, I am aware of <span class="caps">NETIQUETTE.</span> But allow me to say you are correct…I am not yelling. And I thiabnk you for your understanding. Its my habit to type with all caps because I never learned to type. I type with one finger. But I can type real fast….IF..I just use caps or lower case..and time is so short and precious. I will try not to use caps in the future on your blog. At the moment I am very short on time and tho I would like to respond to Ivan, I cant at the moment. Suffice to say I appreciate him sharing his  knowledge with all of us. Im sure Ivan is a sincere, dedicated, educated artist…much like you David. Thanks again. — Louis <br />
PS: Please see the new methods on cleansing the Unrefined Flax oil on my website. IT’S <span class="caps">FREE </span>!!  Like Ivan, I have nothing to sell except knowledge, and authors deserve the fruits of their labors. As Abraham Lincoln said, ” An attorney is worth his time and knowledge”. Oh yes, I do sell the finest Superior Linseed/Flax oil, but not to anyone or everyone.</p>]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: David</title>
		<link>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2007/04/16/art-experts-on-the-internet/comment-page-1/#comment-9281</link>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 17 Aug 2008 19:12:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2007/04/16/art-experts-on-the-internet/#comment-9281</guid>
		<description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&#039;#comment-9274&#039; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;@Louis R. Velasquez&lt;/a&gt; -&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Louis,&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;I&#039;d like to bring to your attention a point of internet etiquette--specifically, your habit of typing in ALL CAPS. All caps, besides being harder to read, is generally interpreted as yelling. I&#039;m sure that&#039;s not how you want to present yourself.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/All_caps&lt;/p&gt;
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href='#comment-9274' rel="nofollow">@Louis R. Velasquez</a> -</p>

<p>Louis,</p>

<p>I’d like to bring to your attention a point of internet etiquette—specifically, your habit of typing in <span class="caps">ALL CAPS.</span> All caps, besides being harder to read, is generally interpreted as yelling. I’m sure that’s not how you want to present yourself.</p>

<p><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/All_caps" rel="nofollow">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/All_caps</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Ivan Sahba</title>
		<link>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2007/04/16/art-experts-on-the-internet/comment-page-1/#comment-9277</link>
		<dc:creator>Ivan Sahba</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 15 Aug 2008 06:10:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2007/04/16/art-experts-on-the-internet/#comment-9277</guid>
		<description>&lt;p&gt;This is more info in regards to the Luis&#039; response to my mistakes:&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;ol&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Sunflower oil production in Russia was started by Bokaryov in Alekseyevka, Belgogorod, Russia in 1828. In 1833 the first factory of making sunflower oil started and in a few years it became popular. The process was pressing.
Today sunflower oil is produced by use of heat and pressure. While many of Russian painters used the sunflower oil it was made by pressure alone and not heated systems. Sunflower oil has a very high content of Oleic acid up to and around 40%, vs. Linseed (around 18-20%). Also sunflower has a high amount of Linoleic acid, around and up to 75% vs. Linseed oil (around and up to 24%). When heated this will produce oil that while works for painting it does cause a faster chemical reaction between pigment and oil. In case of some pigment this is more than others. Cold press linseed oil is much more available than cold press sunflower oil due to industry as well as the significant difference in the amount of oil that can be produced via heat from sunflower vs. cold press. While Russia is the largest producer of sunflower oil in the world the entire artist paint industry is NOT based on sunflower. If KURT WEHLTE says so that is great. Unfortunately I am from there, went to school there and know a thing or two about it. The largest manufacturer of artist oil paint in Soviet was Yarka (and is) and they use Cold pressed linseed oil. &lt;/li&gt;
&lt;/ol&gt;

&lt;p&gt;I still think sunflower oil is more suitable for salads. Also note that flax oil that is sold under that name is suitable for salad. Mainly flax oil is not refined the way that it is cleaned for painting use and named linseed oil. (I am not saying linseed oil is made from anything but flax seeds.)&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;ol&gt;
&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have mentioned that Rembrandt used walnut oil. I did not say he used ONLY walnut oil. I am very well aware of the use of it in some of the paintings that we have in Hermitage. Hendrik van Balen was using it and his student Anthony van Dyck was also a very well known user of it as well as others. Also note that walnut oil dries slower but it works well in a medium with turpentine.
The use of poppy and walnut for whites is due to its less yellowing color. The reason for recommending it for blues is the 3% Stearic acid of it, which helps to lower the separation of oil. Separation was not an issue in oil painting until the invention of tubes in 1841. Today the painters who do prepare their paints by rubbing it out after exit of the tube do not have this problem. It is only a problem for using the paint directly out of the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Finally my real error! There are 2 products made from Lavender: Lavender oil and spike oil of Lavender. I have seen many painters thinking of the Lavender oil to be used for painting, as it is oil. That is the one that you may buy for use as lotion and cure for insomnia, alopecia (hair loss), anxiety, stress, postoperative pain and Aromatherapy. That is what I am warning you about. 
Spike oil of lavender is a distilled product and it is thin and a diluting substance. It should not replace the binding agent in oil paint: the oil. It is a thinner. While you can use the spike in place of turpentine for making medium for the smell factor, I would not due to the process that is used today in making spike oil vs. turpentine. 
The lower amount of medium is used the better it is for the paint durability and health. Paint that was made prior to 1900 by hand or before that by the apprentices or the painters themselves had a higher amount of oil as binder since it was not made by machinery. As it was going to be mixed with medium it did not have a thickness as it is made and sold today. Most painters today who prefer to mull their own pigment and oil do not make it that thick either.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;/ol&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I have no products that I could sell to you.&lt;/p&gt;
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This is more info in regards to the Luis’ response to my mistakes:</p>

<ol>
<li>Sunflower oil production in Russia was started by Bokaryov in Alekseyevka, Belgogorod, Russia in 1828. In 1833 the first factory of making sunflower oil started and in a few years it became popular. The process was pressing.
Today sunflower oil is produced by use of heat and pressure. While many of Russian painters used the sunflower oil it was made by pressure alone and not heated systems. Sunflower oil has a very high content of Oleic acid up to and around 40%, vs. Linseed (around 18–20%). Also sunflower has a high amount of Linoleic acid, around and up to 75% vs. Linseed oil (around and up to 24%). When heated this will produce oil that while works for painting it does cause a faster chemical reaction between pigment and oil. In case of some pigment this is more than others. Cold press linseed oil is much more available than cold press sunflower oil due to industry as well as the significant difference in the amount of oil that can be produced via heat from sunflower vs. cold press. While Russia is the largest producer of sunflower oil in the world the entire artist paint industry is <span class="caps">NOT </span>based on sunflower. If <span class="caps">KURT WEHLTE </span>says so that is great. Unfortunately I am from there, went to school there and know a thing or two about it. The largest manufacturer of artist oil paint in Soviet was Yarka (and is) and they use Cold pressed linseed oil. </li>
</ol>

<p>I still think sunflower oil is more suitable for salads. Also note that flax oil that is sold under that name is suitable for salad. Mainly flax oil is not refined the way that it is cleaned for painting use and named linseed oil. (I am not saying linseed oil is made from anything but flax seeds.)</p>

<ol>
<li><p>I have mentioned that Rembrandt used walnut oil. I did not say he used <span class="caps">ONLY </span>walnut oil. I am very well aware of the use of it in some of the paintings that we have in Hermitage. Hendrik van Balen was using it and his student Anthony van Dyck was also a very well known user of it as well as others. Also note that walnut oil dries slower but it works well in a medium with turpentine.
The use of poppy and walnut for whites is due to its less yellowing color. The reason for recommending it for blues is the 3% Stearic acid of it, which helps to lower the separation of oil. Separation was not an issue in oil painting until the invention of tubes in 1841. Today the painters who do prepare their paints by rubbing it out after exit of the tube do not have this problem. It is only a problem for using the paint directly out of the tube.</p></li>
<li><p>Finally my real error! There are 2 products made from Lavender: Lavender oil and spike oil of Lavender. I have seen many painters thinking of the Lavender oil to be used for painting, as it is oil. That is the one that you may buy for use as lotion and cure for insomnia, alopecia (hair loss), anxiety, stress, postoperative pain and Aromatherapy. That is what I am warning you about. 
Spike oil of lavender is a distilled product and it is thin and a diluting substance. It should not replace the binding agent in oil paint: the oil. It is a thinner. While you can use the spike in place of turpentine for making medium for the smell factor, I would not due to the process that is used today in making spike oil vs. turpentine. <br />
The lower amount of medium is used the better it is for the paint durability and health. Paint that was made prior to 1900 by hand or before that by the apprentices or the painters themselves had a higher amount of oil as binder since it was not made by machinery. As it was going to be mixed with medium it did not have a thickness as it is made and sold today. Most painters today who prefer to mull their own pigment and oil do not make it that thick either.</p></li>
</ol>

<p>Unfortunately I have no products that I could sell to you.</p>]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Louis R. Velasquez</title>
		<link>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2007/04/16/art-experts-on-the-internet/comment-page-1/#comment-9274</link>
		<dc:creator>Louis R. Velasquez</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 12 Aug 2008 05:48:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2007/04/16/art-experts-on-the-internet/#comment-9274</guid>
		<description>&lt;p&gt;HI DAVID AND IVAN,
WHERE DOES THE TIME GO?
I WAS JUST READING OLD SITES AND SAW THIS FROM ONE YEAR AGO.
IVAN GIVES LOTS OF GOOD ADVICE, BUT IS IN ERROR ON A FEW POINTS. ;ET ME EXPLAIN:
IVAN SAID:
Louis mentions sunflower oil. I hope he means safflower NOT sunflower. .....Sunflower is Helianthus annuus and has no place in painting! Salads and some cooking is where it should be used.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;WELL IVAN, IMNOT SURE OF YOUR SOURCE, BUT LET ME GIVE YOU MINE ON WHY I DO MEAN &#039;SUNFLOWER&#039;, AND NOT SAFFLOWER. &#039;THE MATERIALS AND TECHNIQUES OF PAINTING&#039; BY KURT WEHLTE.YOU CAN BUY IT AT SINOPIA.COM. THE BEST INVESTMENT YOU WILL MAKE FOR LEARNING OF TECHNICAL/CHEMICAL MATTERS ON PAINTING MATERIALS. MAKES RALPH MAYERS BOOK LOOK SIMPLE.(NO DISRESPECT TO RALPH).&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;PAGE 382:.( REFERENCE SUNFLOWER OIL) ..CLOSELY RESEMBLES POPPY OIL..THE ENTIRE RUSSIAN PRODUCTION OF ARTISTS&#039;S OIL PAINTS IS BASED ON THIS MATERIAL, AND THE PICTURES PAINTED WITH IT ARE WELL PRESERVED&#039;. SO WHELTE PROVIDES PROVEN FACTS ON SUNFLOWER SEED OIL. YES IVAN MAY WISH TO USE IT ON SALADS BUT WE DO THE SAME WITH FLAX OIL AND WALNUT OIL. ALL ARE NUTRICIOUS AND TASTY.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;IVAN S LETTER HAS OTHER ERRORS; 
(IVAN SAYS): ...... Walnut oil is also used by old masters, van Dyck, Rubens, Rembrandt to name a few. 
THE SCIENTIFIC STUDIES MOST RECENTLY SHOW REMBRANDT USED WALNUT OIL HAPHAZARDLY..AS IF HE WAS POSSIBLY OUT OF LINSEED OIL AT THE MOMENT, OR QUITE FRANKLY JUST GRABBED WHAT HE HAD ON HAND. I SAY THIS BECAUSE ART &#039;EXPERTS&#039; ON THE WEB, AND IN BOOKS WILL INSTRUCT ARTISTS TO USE WALNUT OR POPPY OIL WITH WHITE AND BLUE PAINTS; THE WALNUT OIL IN  REMBRANDTS PAINTINGS...AND THERE WAS VERY LITTLE FOUND.. WAS IN SOME DARK PAINT. THE SOURCE IS FROM THE NATIONAL GALLERY / LONDON. &quot;BOOK ART IN THE MAKING; REMBRANDT &quot;TWO EDITIONS, 1988 AND REVISED 2006.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;AND FINALLY IVANS REAL ERROR: 
(IVAN SAYS): There are other oils that are used by some but none are proven in a test of time such as lavender, etc. 
LAVENDER OIL IS NOT AN OIL, IT IS A SOLVENT. ONCE EXTRACTED FROM THE LAVENDER FLOWERS, IT IS CALLED &#039;SPIKE&#039;. LIKE TURPENTINE, IT IS NOT A BINDER AND EVAPORATES WHEN EXPOSED TO AIR.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;MY WEBSITE, RECENTLY WAS UPDATED WITH MY RESERACH ON HOW FRANCISCO PACHECO ( VELAZQUERZ TEACHER) CLEANSED HIS OIL.
THE MAGIC INGREDIENTS WERE &#039;AGUA ARDIENTE, LA QUE SE LLAMA DE CABEZA&#039; AND&quot; LA FLOE DE ALHUCEMA&quot;. TO THOSE WHO DO NOT UNDERSTAND SPANISH, THEY ARE: ALCOHOLIC LIQUOR AND THE LAVENDER FLOWER. THE PROCESS TO CLEANSE THE OIL IS ON MY WEBSITE.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;SORRY TO GET TO IVANS LETTER SO LATE- I WAS UNAWARE OF IT
RESPECTFULLY, LOUIS&lt;/p&gt;
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>HI <span class="caps">DAVID AND IVAN,</span>
<span class="caps">WHERE DOES THE TIME</span> GO?<br />
I <span class="caps">WAS JUST READING OLD SITES AND SAW THIS FROM ONE YEAR AGO.</span><br />
<span class="caps">IVAN GIVES LOTS</span> OF <span class="caps">GOOD ADVICE, BUT</span> IS IN <span class="caps">ERROR</span> ON A <span class="caps">FEW POINTS. </span>;ET ME <span class="caps">EXPLAIN</span>:<br />
<span class="caps">IVAN SAID</span>:<br />
Louis mentions sunflower oil. I hope he means safflower <span class="caps">NOT </span>sunflower. …..Sunflower is Helianthus annuus and has no place in painting! Salads and some cooking is where it should be used.</p>

<p><span class="caps">WELL IVAN, IMNOT SURE</span> OF <span class="caps">YOUR SOURCE, BUT LET</span> ME <span class="caps">GIVE YOU MINE</span> ON <span class="caps">WHY</span> I DO <span class="caps">MEAN </span>‘SUNFLOWER’, <span class="caps">AND NOT SAFFLOWER. </span>‘THE <span class="caps">MATERIALS AND TECHNIQUES</span> OF <span class="caps">PAINTING’</span> BY <span class="caps">KURT WEHLTE.YOU CAN BUY</span> IT AT <span class="caps">SINOPIA.COM. THE BEST INVESTMENT YOU WILL MAKE FOR LEARNING</span> OF <span class="caps">TECHNICAL</span>/CHEMICAL <span class="caps">MATTERS</span> ON <span class="caps">PAINTING MATERIALS. MAKES RALPH MAYERS BOOK LOOK SIMPLE.</span>(NO <span class="caps">DISRESPECT</span> TO <span class="caps">RALPH</span>).</p>

<p><span class="caps">PAGE</span> 382:.( <span class="caps">REFERENCE SUNFLOWER OIL</span>) ..CLOSELY <span class="caps">RESEMBLES POPPY OIL..THE ENTIRE RUSSIAN PRODUCTION</span> OF <span class="caps">ARTISTS’S OIL PAINTS</span> IS <span class="caps">BASED</span> ON <span class="caps">THIS MATERIAL, AND THE PICTURES PAINTED WITH</span> IT <span class="caps">ARE WELL PRESERVED’.</span> SO <span class="caps">WHELTE PROVIDES PROVEN FACTS</span> ON <span class="caps">SUNFLOWER SEED OIL. YES IVAN MAY WISH</span> TO <span class="caps">USE</span> IT ON <span class="caps">SALADS BUT</span> WE DO <span class="caps">THE SAME WITH FLAX OIL AND WALNUT OIL. ALL ARE NUTRICIOUS AND TASTY.</span></p>

<p><span class="caps">IVAN</span> S <span class="caps">LETTER HAS OTHER ERRORS</span>; 
(IVAN <span class="caps">SAYS</span>): …… Walnut oil is also used by old masters, van Dyck, Rubens, Rembrandt to name a few. <br />
<span class="caps">THE SCIENTIFIC STUDIES MOST RECENTLY SHOW REMBRANDT USED WALNUT OIL HAPHAZARDLY..AS</span> IF HE <span class="caps">WAS POSSIBLY OUT</span> OF <span class="caps">LINSEED OIL</span> AT <span class="caps">THE MOMENT,</span> OR <span class="caps">QUITE FRANKLY JUST GRABBED WHAT</span> HE <span class="caps">HAD</span> ON <span class="caps">HAND.</span> I <span class="caps">SAY THIS BECAUSE ART </span>‘EXPERTS’ ON <span class="caps">THE WEB, AND</span> IN <span class="caps">BOOKS WILL INSTRUCT ARTISTS</span> TO <span class="caps">USE WALNUT</span> OR <span class="caps">POPPY OIL WITH WHITE AND BLUE PAINTS</span>; <span class="caps">THE WALNUT OIL</span> IN  <span class="caps">REMBRANDTS PAINTINGS…AND THERE WAS VERY LITTLE FOUND.. WAS</span> IN <span class="caps">SOME DARK PAINT. THE SOURCE</span> IS <span class="caps">FROM THE NATIONAL GALLERY </span>/ <span class="caps">LONDON. </span>“BOOK <span class="caps">ART</span> IN <span class="caps">THE MAKING</span>; <span class="caps">REMBRANDT </span>“TWO <span class="caps">EDITIONS,</span> 1988 <span class="caps">AND REVISED</span> 2006.</p>

<p><span class="caps">AND FINALLY IVANS REAL ERROR</span>: 
(IVAN <span class="caps">SAYS</span>): There are other oils that are used by some but none are proven in a test of time such as lavender, etc. <br />
<span class="caps">LAVENDER OIL</span> IS <span class="caps">NOT</span> AN <span class="caps">OIL,</span> IT IS A <span class="caps">SOLVENT. ONCE EXTRACTED FROM THE LAVENDER FLOWERS,</span> IT IS <span class="caps">CALLED </span>‘SPIKE’. <span class="caps">LIKE TURPENTINE,</span> IT IS <span class="caps">NOT</span> A <span class="caps">BINDER AND EVAPORATES WHEN EXPOSED</span> TO <span class="caps">AIR.</span></p>

<p>MY <span class="caps">WEBSITE, RECENTLY WAS UPDATED WITH</span> MY <span class="caps">RESERACH</span> ON <span class="caps">HOW FRANCISCO PACHECO </span>( <span class="caps">VELAZQUERZ TEACHER</span>) <span class="caps">CLEANSED HIS OIL.</span>
<span class="caps">THE MAGIC INGREDIENTS WERE </span>‘AGUA <span class="caps">ARDIENTE,</span> LA <span class="caps">QUE</span> SE <span class="caps">LLAMA</span> DE <span class="caps">CABEZA’ AND</span>” LA <span class="caps">FLOE</span> DE <span class="caps">ALHUCEMA</span>”. TO <span class="caps">THOSE WHO</span> DO <span class="caps">NOT UNDERSTAND SPANISH, THEY ARE</span>: <span class="caps">ALCOHOLIC LIQUOR AND THE LAVENDER FLOWER. THE PROCESS</span> TO <span class="caps">CLEANSE THE OIL</span> IS ON MY <span class="caps">WEBSITE.</span></p>

<p><span class="caps">SORRY</span> TO <span class="caps">GET</span> TO <span class="caps">IVANS LETTER</span> SO <span class="caps">LATE</span>- I <span class="caps">WAS UNAWARE</span> OF IT
<span class="caps">RESPECTFULLY, LOUIS</span></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: Ivan Sahba</title>
		<link>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2007/04/16/art-experts-on-the-internet/comment-page-1/#comment-6034</link>
		<dc:creator>Ivan Sahba</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 14 Aug 2007 15:53:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2007/04/16/art-experts-on-the-internet/#comment-6034</guid>
		<description>&lt;p&gt;David,
Thanks for the note. As I mentioned the saffflower and poppy are not oils to be used alone. There is no harm in using a tiny amount of poppy to retard the drying time. The ninding of these would be fine in mixture of the Linseed, walnut or both. Clove oil is not recommended as it does become brittle and detriorates faster than other oils. Some people use it for the smell factor. In damp conditions it can rot easily.
Thanks for the heads up on the URL. I corrected the spelling!&lt;/p&gt;
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>David,
Thanks for the note. As I mentioned the saffflower and poppy are not oils to be used alone. There is no harm in using a tiny amount of poppy to retard the drying time. The ninding of these would be fine in mixture of the Linseed, walnut or both. Clove oil is not recommended as it does become brittle and detriorates faster than other oils. Some people use it for the smell factor. In damp conditions it can rot easily.<br />
Thanks for the heads up on the <span class="caps">URL.</span> I corrected the spelling!</p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: David</title>
		<link>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2007/04/16/art-experts-on-the-internet/comment-page-1/#comment-6019</link>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 13 Aug 2007 23:04:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2007/04/16/art-experts-on-the-internet/#comment-6019</guid>
		<description>&lt;p&gt;Ivan,&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the comments. I personally avoid safflower and poppy oils, because I am concerned about their limited binding strength and use a tiny bit of clove oil if I need to retard drying time.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Your URL doesn&#039;t appear to work, by the way.&lt;/p&gt;
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ivan,</p>

<p>Thanks for the comments. I personally avoid safflower and poppy oils, because I am concerned about their limited binding strength and use a tiny bit of clove oil if I need to retard drying time.</p>

<p>Your <span class="caps">URL </span>doesn’t appear to work, by the way.</p>]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Ivan Sahba</title>
		<link>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2007/04/16/art-experts-on-the-internet/comment-page-1/#comment-6002</link>
		<dc:creator>Ivan Sahba</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 13 Aug 2007 06:18:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2007/04/16/art-experts-on-the-internet/#comment-6002</guid>
		<description>&lt;p&gt;Interesting issues ... David and Louis, some info for you
First thing that should be considered is that different oils have different values and specifications. Not all oils do the same job, rendering comparison of oils useless.
Louis is correct about the color of the oil up to a certain point. linseed oil is yellowish. However washing it reduces SOME of the color that is in the &quot;mucilage&quot;. The site that mentions washing has some points but fails to mention that the light color oil is actually sun bleached. The sun bleached oil does not become as yellow as it was by age. Oils is dark places and dark bottles are not a good idea as have no place in painting. No one keeps a painting in a very dark place. Oils will become a bit dark by age.
The yellowing of many old oil paintings from the masters is due to varnish and not necessarily the oil.
Louis mentions sunflower oil. I hope he means safflower NOT sunflower. Safflower is Carthamus tinctorius and while it is a great oil and is used for lighter pigments such as whites and some yellows it is not as &quot;tough&quot; of a film as linseed. It does allow longer drying time so it is a wonderful oil to be mixed into the linseed oil and some of the quick dry pigments such as earths to allow flexibility in time.
Using safflower by itself is not a good idea. Unless you mix your own pigments and oil you can not avoid linseed oil with exception of a few makers that use walnut oil.
Sunflower is Helianthus annuus and has no place in painting! Salads and some cooking is where it should be used.
Washing oil with &quot;hot water&quot; is not correct. Heating oil above 120 deg Fahrenheit (~50 celsius) is not advised since it start a molecular change. Freezing oil below 33 deg Fahrenheit (-1 celsius) is not advised either as it does change the oil&#039;s structure. Never store your paints in a freezer!!
The old system of washing oil is to use very warm water and shake the oil in moderate amounts, NOT huge bottles. Allow separation and pour off the oil on top. Do not be greedy and leave the &quot;gunk&quot; in. Then pout the rest of the oil near the gunk to another container and you can clean it in the next batch of oil. Repeat the process until you are satisfied with the results. Do allow the oil in the sun for a few days to propagate it and give it some oxygen. Or as it was called in the old days, &quot;aired&quot;.
Here is a few things about oils that might help you.
Raw - oil that has been made by heating the flax seeds to get more oil. Filtered by many methods.
Cold Pressed - The seeds/ nuts are just pressed to squeeze the oil without any heating.
Boiled - oil that has been boiled after extraction to change chemically. All oils that are boiled are tougher and make a more flexible film. They are darker. Used for industrial based paints, i.e. house paints. The darkness is not a concern at all. They are bleached by exposure to sunlight especially in lead pigments they work very well. NOT suitable for fine arts painting.
Refined - oil that has the mucilage or impurities removed from it by means of different processes including, filtration, chemical (alkali as example), heat, pressure and a combination of such methods.
Sun bleached - oil that has been exposed to sun to allow the color to vanish. The oil will be lighter and yellows less. The yellowing is not chemical but it is due to reduction of the volume during oxidization. Dries faster and works well as a medium.
Sun thickened - the same as above except that it is allowed to contact the air and it semi oxidized by the contact with air, it is stirred often to allow change in consistency, thick oil and it mixed with turpentine to create a medium. normally is mixed with balsam oil, venice turpentine or wax.
Stand Oil - Oil that has been polymerized by process of heat and pressure, i.e. in a pressure cooker to about 300 deg. The characteristic of such oil is that it is a &quot;leveling&quot; oil, meaning that the brush strokes will disappear. Making it a very suitable oil for glazing thin and very smooth painting. It is thicker than oil and is mixed with turpentine and other oils to make mediums.
Thickened oil - Oil that has been thickened by exposure to air but not sun light. While is partially oxidized it is not bleached and is as yellow as it was before. It is wonderful for mixing to turpentine for a medium without becoming as thin as regular oil and turpentine mix. It is faster drying but not as leveling as stand oil.
Oil Sources
Linseed - Flax seed oil - The strongest and toughest of oils, yellowish, medium drying time.
Walnut - From the nut - The second strongest, less yellowish than linseed, more difficult to make, a bit longer to dry than linseed. Walnut oil is also used by old masters, van Dyck, Rubens, Rembrandt to name a few. 
Safflower - From the plant, a moderate oil and is better to be used in a mixture as a binder for making paint and preparing the paint. Not as strong as the two above, less yellow than the the previous oils. 
Poppy - from the seeds, The thinest, weakest and lightest of the oils above and is great for a mixture in the paint making process for whites. It takes the longest to dry so it is perfect to be added a drop or two in preparing the amount of paint on the palette for Burnt umber, burnt sienna, naples yellow (especially genuine), jaune brilliant to keep them from drying too fast on the palette.
There are other oils that are used by some but none are proven in a test of time such as lavender, etc.&lt;/p&gt;
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Interesting issues … David and Louis, some info for you
First thing that should be considered is that different oils have different values and specifications. Not all oils do the same job, rendering comparison of oils useless.<br />
Louis is correct about the color of the oil up to a certain point. linseed oil is yellowish. However washing it reduces <span class="caps">SOME </span>of the color that is in the “mucilage”. The site that mentions washing has some points but fails to mention that the light color oil is actually sun bleached. The sun bleached oil does not become as yellow as it was by age. Oils is dark places and dark bottles are not a good idea as have no place in painting. No one keeps a painting in a very dark place. Oils will become a bit dark by age.<br />
The yellowing of many old oil paintings from the masters is due to varnish and not necessarily the oil.<br />
Louis mentions sunflower oil. I hope he means safflower <span class="caps">NOT </span>sunflower. Safflower is Carthamus tinctorius and while it is a great oil and is used for lighter pigments such as whites and some yellows it is not as “tough” of a film as linseed. It does allow longer drying time so it is a wonderful oil to be mixed into the linseed oil and some of the quick dry pigments such as earths to allow flexibility in time.<br />
Using safflower by itself is not a good idea. Unless you mix your own pigments and oil you can not avoid linseed oil with exception of a few makers that use walnut oil.<br />
Sunflower is Helianthus annuus and has no place in painting! Salads and some cooking is where it should be used.<br />
Washing oil with “hot water” is not correct. Heating oil above 120 deg Fahrenheit (~50 celsius) is not advised since it start a molecular change. Freezing oil below 33 deg Fahrenheit (-1 celsius) is not advised either as it does change the oil’s structure. Never store your paints in a freezer!!<br />
The old system of washing oil is to use very warm water and shake the oil in moderate amounts, <span class="caps">NOT </span>huge bottles. Allow separation and pour off the oil on top. Do not be greedy and leave the “gunk” in. Then pout the rest of the oil near the gunk to another container and you can clean it in the next batch of oil. Repeat the process until you are satisfied with the results. Do allow the oil in the sun for a few days to propagate it and give it some oxygen. Or as it was called in the old days, “aired”.<br />
Here is a few things about oils that might help you.<br />
Raw — oil that has been made by heating the flax seeds to get more oil. Filtered by many methods.<br />
Cold Pressed — The seeds/ nuts are just pressed to squeeze the oil without any heating.<br />
Boiled — oil that has been boiled after extraction to change chemically. All oils that are boiled are tougher and make a more flexible film. They are darker. Used for industrial based paints, i.e. house paints. The darkness is not a concern at all. They are bleached by exposure to sunlight especially in lead pigments they work very well. <span class="caps">NOT </span>suitable for fine arts painting.<br />
Refined — oil that has the mucilage or impurities removed from it by means of different processes including, filtration, chemical (alkali as example), heat, pressure and a combination of such methods.<br />
Sun bleached — oil that has been exposed to sun to allow the color to vanish. The oil will be lighter and yellows less. The yellowing is not chemical but it is due to reduction of the volume during oxidization. Dries faster and works well as a medium.<br />
Sun thickened — the same as above except that it is allowed to contact the air and it semi oxidized by the contact with air, it is stirred often to allow change in consistency, thick oil and it mixed with turpentine to create a medium. normally is mixed with balsam oil, venice turpentine or wax.<br />
Stand Oil — Oil that has been polymerized by process of heat and pressure, i.e. in a pressure cooker to about 300 deg. The characteristic of such oil is that it is a “leveling” oil, meaning that the brush strokes will disappear. Making it a very suitable oil for glazing thin and very smooth painting. It is thicker than oil and is mixed with turpentine and other oils to make mediums.<br />
Thickened oil — Oil that has been thickened by exposure to air but not sun light. While is partially oxidized it is not bleached and is as yellow as it was before. It is wonderful for mixing to turpentine for a medium without becoming as thin as regular oil and turpentine mix. It is faster drying but not as leveling as stand oil.<br />
Oil Sources<br />
Linseed — Flax seed oil — The strongest and toughest of oils, yellowish, medium drying time.<br />
Walnut — From the nut — The second strongest, less yellowish than linseed, more difficult to make, a bit longer to dry than linseed. Walnut oil is also used by old masters, van Dyck, Rubens, Rembrandt to name a few. <br />
Safflower — From the plant, a moderate oil and is better to be used in a mixture as a binder for making paint and preparing the paint. Not as strong as the two above, less yellow than the the previous oils. <br />
Poppy — from the seeds, The thinest, weakest and lightest of the oils above and is great for a mixture in the paint making process for whites. It takes the longest to dry so it is perfect to be added a drop or two in preparing the amount of paint on the palette for Burnt umber, burnt sienna, naples yellow (especially genuine), jaune brilliant to keep them from drying too fast on the palette.<br />
There are other oils that are used by some but none are proven in a test of time such as lavender, etc.</p>]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: mongoose1</title>
		<link>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2007/04/16/art-experts-on-the-internet/comment-page-1/#comment-5910</link>
		<dc:creator>mongoose1</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Aug 2007 19:51:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2007/04/16/art-experts-on-the-internet/#comment-5910</guid>
		<description>&lt;p&gt;I stopped using Maroger because of it&#039;s toxicity and I&#039;ve switched to titanium white to avoid flake and it&#039;s lead.  I get pretty fixated when I am creating something and I am always concerned that I will have paint on a finger that I unthinkingly put in my mouth (I bite my nails sometimes).&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;As far as safety, a great source is  Mark D. Gottsegen&#039;s book, The Painter&#039;s Handbook.   If you paint with acrylics another great place to get info from the horses mouth is Mark Golden&#039;s blog.  You can ask him questions there (via a comment) and he&#039;s extremely responsive).&lt;/p&gt;
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I stopped using Maroger because of it’s toxicity and I’ve switched to titanium white to avoid flake and it’s lead.  I get pretty fixated when I am creating something and I am always concerned that I will have paint on a finger that I unthinkingly put in my mouth (I bite my nails sometimes).</p>

<p>As far as safety, a great source is  Mark D. Gottsegen’s book, The Painter’s Handbook.   If you paint with acrylics another great place to get info from the horses mouth is Mark Golden’s blog.  You can ask him questions there (via a comment) and he’s extremely responsive).</p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: Louis R. Velasquez</title>
		<link>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2007/04/16/art-experts-on-the-internet/comment-page-1/#comment-5113</link>
		<dc:creator>Louis R. Velasquez</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 04 Jun 2007 02:35:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2007/04/16/art-experts-on-the-internet/#comment-5113</guid>
		<description>&lt;p&gt;Hi David,
Seems you missed the boat. Im quoting your statement in part
&quot;oil paintings that are hundreds of years old. While very slight yellowing is often detectable, I’ve never seen a painting and thought, “wow, the whites are so yellow it detracts from the quality of the painting.” That’s with oils that were probably much less pure than modern cold-pressed or alkalai-refined products. &quot;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;OILS MUCH LESS PURE than todays?
I think you will enjoy reading the full essay on my website, as it will clear up misconceptions of today&#039;s linseed oils..refined or other.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;My current experiments show SUNFLOWER SEED OIL to be COMPLETELY free of any yellowing. Even when kept in the dark for weeks.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;sincerely=louis&lt;/p&gt;
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi David,
Seems you missed the boat. Im quoting your statement in part<br /></p>

<p><span class="caps">OILS MUCH LESS PURE </span>than todays?
I think you will enjoy reading the full essay on my website, as it will clear up misconceptions of today’s linseed oils..refined or other.</p>

<p>My current experiments show <span class="caps">SUNFLOWER SEED OIL </span>to be <span class="caps">COMPLETELY </span>free of any yellowing. Even when kept in the dark for weeks.</p>

<p>sincerely=louis</p>]]></content:encoded>
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