Originally posted 20 September 2006.
Month after month, this is the single most popular post on this site. It seems that lots of people are using search engines to answer this question.
The joy and the curse of oil paint is how long it takes to dry. It’s great to have lots of time to work with the paint, re-do mistakes, and get those gradients and edges just right. But then, in multi-layered painting, there are times where you just need to stop and let the paint dry. For days. It can be very disruptive to artistic momentum.
Some painters are fine with letting paintings dry for days or even weeks. They work on more than one piece at a time and come back to each one when it’s ready. But sometimes you want stay with one piece, working every day. Here are some ways to control the rate at which oil paintings dry:
- Paint in thin layers (like the thickness of a normal coat of house paint).
- Avoid slow-drying pigments like titanium white and ivory black. Use fast-drying pigments like lead white and burnt umber.
- Use paints ground in linseed oil. Avoid paints made with slow-drying oils like safflower and poppy. Also avoid walnut oil, which dries faster than safflower or poppy, but slower than linseed.
- Use a lean lead-containing medium such as Maroger’s (in very small amounts).
- Add a bit of solvent to the first layer. Spirits of turpentine and oil of spike interact chemically with the paint, causing it to take up oxygen more rapidly and dry faster. Mineral spirits do not react in any significant way, but all solvents will make the paint layer thinner, which does make paint dry faster. Don’t add so much solvent to paint that it becomes washy or watery. Just add a little bit.
- Paint on a panel primed with glue-chalk gesso. The first layer will have some oil absorbed by the gesso, so the paint dries more quickly.
- Add small amounts of metallic driers to the paint. I prefer lead napthenate. I add one tiny drop (from a toothpick) per blob of paint on the palette and mix thoroughly. Excessive use of driers will damage the paint film, but that much should not be any problem. I generally add driers only to slow-drying pigments.
- Paint on a copper panel. The first layer of your painting will dry more quickly.
Some painters also use alkyd mediums such as Liquin, Neo-Meglip, and Galkyd. I don’t use alkyd mediums and I don’t recommend them. However, they do make oil paint dry faster.
When I need to, I can get oil paint dry in a day, so I don’t usually have to wait for a layer to dry before I can paint over it. Sometimes, I choose to use a medium that makes the paint dry more slowly, or I use a slow-drying pigment like titanium white. But when I do that, I know that the paint will need extra time to dry. My glazing medium (a 50/50 mixture of black oil and Venice turpentine) is somewhat slow-drying, so glazes usually take two or three days to dry.
It’s also the case that I often complete one section of a painting at a time. That way, it doesn’t matter whether yesterday’s paint is dry, because today I’m working on a different part of the picture.
Updates
Update 22 February 2007: In a comment on this post, Louis R. Velasquez pointed out to me that some solvents do cause oil paints to dry more quickly via chemical action. I have corrected the information in this post. I am grateful to Louis for pointing out my error.
Update 19 February 2008: Added painting on copper panels as another way to make oil paint dry more quickly.
i started painting about 6 years ago in asheville, nc. i bought my first set of oil paint and started experimenting. i was learning everything on my own, and i was so naïve and impatient.
i started a painting and wanted it to dry soon so that i can continue working on it, so i placed it inside my dryer with the dryer’s sneaker attachment so that the canvas won’t tumble inside. after a few more failed attempts to dry my oil painting in the dryer, i finally remember my chemistry lessons. DOH!!! (x10) that was my ultimate homer-simpson moment.
from that day, i realize that i have plenty learn about painting. first, i have to understand the characteristics of the different types of paints and how they behave, and with different mediums.
@daniel chow -
Daniel,
It is useful to realize that oil paint hardens by oxidation, not by evaporation. Heat will act as a catalyst to speed chemical reactions in the drying oil, but not necessarily in ways that are good for creation of a stable paint film.
I’ve really enjoyed reading through your blog, thanks for sharing all your thoughts and knowledge. __I have been using Liquin as I’m still learning to paint, and have found it useful to get things dry so I can learn quicker. However I have not been happy with how it tends to flatten and, well, suck the life out of the paint really. The colour dulls and I’m assuming it will discolour a bit with age because the liquin build up around the cap on the bottle is discoloured.__I’m still using it a bit, because I am so strapped for time, though hope to stop using it soon when I start working on larger works that don’t have to be ready yesterday!__I was wondering, what your reasons were for not using Liquin or other alkyd mediums, perhaps this will help me stop using it sooner lol
Jade,
I don’t use alkyd mediums such as Liquin for several reasons:
So far as I can tell, the only positive effect of alkyd mediums is fast drying, and I have better ways to get that to happen. There may be alkyd mediums that work better than the couple I have tried, but overall I just don’t see the benefit. They don’t solve any problem I have.
I often use the faster drying Winsor and Newton Alkyd paints, particularly the whites, mixed with normal oil paint. I do this when I want to speed up things. None of the paintings that I still have painted with mixed Alkyd/Oil show any sign of deterioration although I don’t think any of them are older than about 15 years. Some people don’t like the speed of drying or the consistency of Alkyds but it never bothered me. Also, all the alkyd paintings I’ve ever painted look like they were done in oil, and although I don’t use Alkyd mediums like Liquin much, I’ve never had a problem with “lamination”, and I usually paint on smooth board.
Tim,
If alkyds are working for you, then you should definitely continue to use them. I make no claim that anything on this site represents anything other than my own opinions. As far as delamination goes, many artists seem to have no problem whatsoever using alkyd mediums in multi-layer applications. I’ve only heard of a few having problems.
I’ve never had problems with oil painting at all—suddenly, now, with black, in two different paintings…in one 5 years later developing a bloom-like look (am taking to a conservator friday)
Now in another large painting, i was waiting forever for my black to dry—we’re talking months, here, and i do work in layers, and i was using lampblack. Each morning I wiped at the surface with my finger to see if it were dry. It left some residue, but seemed to be drying. So today, I used Liquin to wipe off what was wet (!) and it reconstituted the paint which came off the canvas extremely black onto paper towels. Never in all of my life have I had paint reconstitute after drying so long. What in the world?
I am having the same problem with black in my latest painting after weeks of drying in a hot window. Did your liquin application work?