Flesh tones

The last several weeks, I’ve attended a local figure drawing/painting session in which there is only one pose for the full time. The last couple of times I’ve attended, I’ve done oil portraits.

The portrait from the first week was pretty awful. Last night’s was not exactly good, but not nearly as bad. Maybe I’ll post them when I have something a little better to compare them to.

This is the first work I’ve done with portraits or figures in about three years, so I am not surprised that some of my skills have gotten rusty. One skill that has improved, however, is mixing flesh tones. I remember, when I was taking figure painting classes, having a heck of a time getting flesh tones that looked even approximately convincing, even when I could take my time over a multi-session pose of 9 or 12 hours. The poses I’ve been working from lately are only 2.5 hours, but I now find paint mixing to be relatively straightforward.

Because these are pretty short poses, I have not worried too much about getting exactly the right hue, instead choosing to concentrate of value, chroma, and shape. I’m working with a very limited palette in which flesh tones are mixed from lead white, raw sienna, burnt sienna, and raw umber. (I’ve also used some black and some ultramarine for dark hair and background.) The flesh tones are basically convincing, however: others at the session have remarked on it and my wife, who remembers my previous struggles, has mentioned that these flesh tones seem better. I should note that, thus far, the subjects have been Caucasian, although I don’t think I would have any greater trouble painting folks of less pallor.

I’m not sure why this aspect of painting has become easier, except for all the practice I’ve put in mixing still life colors over the last couple of years. The very simple palette seems to help as well.

Now if I can just get the shape of the head down correctly in paint, I’ll be just fine.

Update

7 May 2009: On further reflection, I think that one of the things I’ve learned over the last couple of years, even with a very limited palette, is much better control over chroma. Many artists mix overly intense skin tones. Most people’s skin is very low in chroma. Even when using relatively dull earth colors, you often need to cut the chroma of your mixes to get accurate color. For these portrait studies, I’ve been using raw umber for that purpose, as it’s chroma is very, very low.

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  1. Dawna Gardner’s avatar

    awesome site…very informative…I am a portrait painter and have experienced way too much dust ect on the linen canvas…i pick off as much of it as I can with a pin…is it dust? or is it the medium drying causing air bubbles ect..i cant figure it out!! very frustrating!!!!any ideas about this dilemma? I also noticed that when i used 1/2 liquin and 1/2 medium…to coat the paitning,it also caused surface stuff that left bits of sticky stuff all over the painting…I had to use turp full strength to wipe it all off!!!luckily my painting was dry enough to withstand the turps…please help!

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    1. David Rourke’s avatar

      Dawna,

      I don't know what's getting into your paint. Dust could be a function of painting in a dusty environment or even lint from paper towels or rags you use to clean brushes with while painting. You might want to try varying your procedures, such as slightly different materials or working in a different room, to try to narrow down exactly what the problem is. Note that vacuuming makes the air in a room more dusty for several hours until it settles. Ionizing dust filters, if you use one, work by giving surfaces a small electric charge that dust is attracted to, so they actually cause more dust to attach itself to paintings.

      What is the medium you are mixing the Liquin with? Some materials, such as stand oil, seem to attract dust. I personally don't use alkyd mediums such as Liquin, so I don't have any experience with whether it attracts dust. One option if dust is falling on your painting while it dries, however, is to hang it at an angle outward (with string and thumb tacks, for example). You could also put a cloth over it, arranged so that the cloth doesn't come into contact with wet paint.

      Best wishes,

      David

      Reply