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<channel>
	<title>All the Strange Hours &#187; art history</title>
	<atom:link href="http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/category/art-history/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress</link>
	<description>Making and Thinking About Visual Art</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Thu, 17 Nov 2011 03:06:41 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>I wish I could dance like Jan Vermeer</title>
		<link>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2011/03/20/i-wish-i-could-dance-like-jan-vermeer/</link>
		<comments>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2011/03/20/i-wish-i-could-dance-like-jan-vermeer/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 20 Mar 2011 22:47:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[art history]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[artists]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[funny]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jan Vermeer]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[music]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[video]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/?p=1139</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I wish I could dance like Jan Vermeer.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a title="I wish I could dance like Jan Vermeer" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pveX-MuAH1s" target="_blank">I wish I could dance like Jan Vermeer.</a></p>
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		<title>Guest Post: The Importance of Depth and Linear Perspective</title>
		<link>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2009/05/09/guest-post-the-importance-of-depth-and-linear-perspective/</link>
		<comments>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2009/05/09/guest-post-the-importance-of-depth-and-linear-perspective/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 09 May 2009 20:09:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[art history]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[art technique]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[depth]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[linear perspective]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[perspective]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/?p=850</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The vanishing point has always held a certain mystique about it to art historians and art connoisseurs alike. The creation of specific vanishing points in the early Renaissance was a turning point in the art world, and led to cement the depth in many paintings of this time period. Before this point, most artists used [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The vanishing point has always held a certain mystique about it to art historians and art connoisseurs alike. The creation of specific vanishing points in the early Renaissance was a turning point in the art world, and led to cement the depth in many paintings of this time period. Before this point, most artists used skenographia on stage in order to give it more depth, with the artist Giotto even attempting a mathematical calculation to determine points of distance within art.</p>

<p>Brunelleschi was the first Renaissance artist to use the vanishing point and depth perception during this time period. Brunelleschi additionally noticed that when drawing Florentine buildings, all lines converged at the horizon line, therefore leading to the realization of the vanishing point. Other artists such as Donatello and Perugino helped to further cement the importance of depth during this time, culminating in Da Vinci’s Last Supper; never before had there been a painting with such mathematical accuracy in relation to depth perception and linear formation. The realization of linear perspective and the vanishing point was kept within Italy for years before flourishing throughout the rest of Europe.  </p>

<p>The checkerboard floor pattern is one of the most obvious examples of original perspective. Alberti was one of the first artists to recognize this phenomenon, and named it as the “pavement” construction, as it typically led to the addition of a pavement scene. He later wrote a treatise entitle “De Pictura/Della Pittura” explaining the proper methods of perspective painting. His theories were based more on planar projections and calculations using the height of triangles in the distance, and also using previous mathematical concepts from Euclid.  </p>

<p>The vanishing point and depth perception are concepts which we take for granted today because we have never known an art world without them; however, if you traverse through the ages, you will see pieces from the Middle Ages where the baby Jesus appears to be the same size as Mary because the artists had no way in which to signify perspective. It is amazing to view in art museums this subtle change in technique; many museums have paintings set up in chronological order, or at least by major movements. The Renaissance was truly its own movement within the art world, and symbolized a shift away from the chaotic, extremely fanatical world of the Middle Ages.  </p>

<p>Without this kind of revolution within the art world, we would still be looking at one-dimensional art works, lacking a proper depth perception. This would prove to be a completely different world from the one we know now, perhaps even lacking the fundamentals of television and movies. Without depth in art, that could not have translated over into any other medium. Therefore, we owe a great deal to these post-Medieval artists who truly paved the way for modern art and art movements. Picasso would not have been able to exist without his acute understanding of the many layers of depth and perspective, and we therefore would have missed out on abstract art entirely as well as every subsequent modern art movement.  </p>

<p>This post was contributed by Heidi Taylor, who writes about the <a href="http://www.bestuniversities.com/">online schools.</a> She welcomes your feedback at HeidiLTaylor006 at gmail.com.</p>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Vision of a Knight</title>
		<link>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2008/10/24/vision-of-a-knight/</link>
		<comments>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2008/10/24/vision-of-a-knight/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 24 Oct 2008 21:26:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[art history]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[artists]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[David's work]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[oil painting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[painting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tempera]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[egg tempera]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Old Master copies]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[old masters]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Raphael]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Renaissance paintings]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/?p=575</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I did this a couple of years ago. It’s a copy of a small panel painting by Raphael (6.7 × 6.7 inches) at the original size. Wikipedia says this about it (the original, of course): The Vision of a Knight or The Dream of Scipio or Allegory is a small egg tempera painting on poplar [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/knights-dream.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-576 aligncenter" title="Vision of a Knight&amp;quot;" src="http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/knights-dream.jpg" alt="&amp;quot;Vision of a Knight&amp;quot; (after Raphael)" width="499" height="500" /></a></p>

<p>I did this a couple of years ago. It’s a copy of a small panel painting by Raphael (6.7 × 6.7 inches) at the original size. Wikipedia says this about it (the original, of course):</p>

<blockquote><p>The Vision of a Knight or The Dream of Scipio or Allegory is a small egg tempera painting on poplar by the Italian Renaissance artist Raphael, finished in 1504. It is in the National Gallery in London. It probably formed a pair with the Three Graces panel, also 17 cm square, now in the Chateau de Chantilly museum.</p></blockquote>

<blockquote><p>The theme is controversial. Some authorities intend the sleeping knight to represent the Roman general Scipio Africanus (236–184 BC) who was dreaming to choose between Virtue (behind whom is a steep and rocky path) and Pleasure (in looser robes). However, the two feminine figures are not presented as contestants. They may represent the ideal attributes of the knight: the book, sword and flower which they hold suggest the ideals of scholar, soldier and lover which a knight should combine.</p></blockquote>

<p>I did it in egg tempera with oil glazes. More recent analysis by the National Gallery indicates that the original was actually an oil painting. Although it is by no means a perfect copy, I am mostly satisfied, as I think I managed to capture some portion of the sweetness of Raphael’s early work.</p>
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		<title>Repost: Archival Permanence</title>
		<link>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2008/10/13/repost-archival-permanence/</link>
		<comments>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2008/10/13/repost-archival-permanence/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 13 Oct 2008 12:05:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[art history]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[art materials]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[art technique]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[oil painting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[painting materials]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[painting methods]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[traditional painting methods]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/?p=528</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[First published 20 October 2006. Over time, all paintings deteriorate. Badly made paintings deteriorate quickly, sometimes within a year or two of completion. A painting made with a high level of craftsmanship can last for many years before noticeable changes occur. For most of us, it isn’t worth going to extreme lengths to make our [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>First published 20 October 2006.<br /></p>

<div class="insert">

<p>Over time, all paintings deteriorate. Badly made paintings deteriorate quickly, sometimes within a year or two of completion. A painting made with a high level of craftsmanship can last for many years before noticeable changes occur.</p>

<p>For most of us, it isn’t worth going to extreme lengths to make our paintings as permanent as they can possibly be. You could, for example, choose to paint on high-tech aluminum honeycomb panels. These are light, long-lasting, and much better supports for painting than most of those used by artists, because they don’t significantly expand or contract with changes in temperature and humidity. They also cost hundreds or thousands of dollars. If you know that you are a visionary artist who will be producing work of breathtaking magnificence that will be of incredible historic significance, you owe it to future generations to eat only cheap prepackaged noodle dishes at each meal so that you can afford to paint on the most permanent and expensive supports (until you work starts to sell for many thousands of dollars—then, go ahead and treat yourself to a nice juicy tofu burger).</p>

<p><span id="more-528"></span></p>

<p>For the rest of us, not so much. Most paintings by even fairly good artists won’t be saved for much more than a generation. The best way to preserve your paintings is to make them really, really good (or really, really popular, which 20th century artists demonstrated to have no correlation with good). A painting that people like a lot will be hung on a wall in a room that has a reasonably constant temperature and no wild swings in humidity. Almost any painting will survive for a long time under those conditions. And if people really like it, it might hang in a museum or get restored by a conservator if it starts to show signs of wear and tear. If a painting isn’t that great, then even if it’s made with excellent craftsmanship and highly archival materials it’s likely to be kept in the attic, basement, or garage for years at a time. Even well-made paintings won’t last long under those circumstances, and when they start to fall apart, no one will pay for a conservator to fix them. So the most archival quality a painting can have is to be so well-liked that the owner (and the owner’s heirs) could never imagine putting it in a moldy basement.</p>

<p>(Of course, if you are a very famous celebrity such as Sir Paul McCartney, your incredibly bad vanity paintings will be treasured and preserved for centuries. Go figure.)</p>

<p>Nevertheless, I think it’s a smart to construct paintings with quality materials and good craftsmanship, if only so that customers won’t complain until after you are dead. Here are some guidelines for oil painting. If you don’t follow them perfectly, it won’t cause your painting to explode. But the closer you adhere to them, the more likely your painting will be to last a long time under optimal conditions, or survive brief periods under poor conditions. If you want a painting to last a long time under poor conditions, oil paint is a very bad choice of medium.</p>

<ul>
    <li>Rigid supports are better than fabric supports. Fabric is flexible, and every time it flexes (as it will do when temperature or humidity changes) the bond between the support and the paint is affected. Over time, that’s very bad for a painting. Copper, steel, and aluminum panels are excellent supports for painting (although they can be heavy). Wood is OK only if it has been seasoned for a year or two after being cut and planed to size. Hardboard is probably OK if there is a good barrier between the panel and the paint. Tempered hardboard is stronger than untempered and that makes it better (despite what some sources say) even though there is a slight amount of oil in the surface of tempered hardboard. Medium density fiberboard is OK only if it is very well sealed on all sides against moisture.</li>
    <li>It may be that polyester will turn out to be the most archival fabric, because it is more dimensionally stable than organic fabrics like linen and cotton. We don’t know yet.</li>
    <li>Oil grounds are good to paint on. Lead grounds are the best oil grounds, because lead is a very flexible pigment. Acrylic primer (“gesso”) is probably a decent ground to paint on (we’ll know for sure in 100 years) but murder on brushes. Traditional gesso is probably an OK ground on a rigid support (the hide glue in gesso is very strong, which is good, but likes to absorb water, which is bad).</li>
    <li>Use permanent pigments. Alizarin crimson is not permanent, especially in mixtures and when applied very thinly. Impermanent pigments will fade or become dull over time.</li>
    <li>If you use linen, cotton, or hemp as a support, don’t put paint or oil primer directly onto it. The oil will rot the fabric. You need a barrier, such as hide glue or acrylic primer, between the paint and the fabric. Make sure the barrier covers the sides as well as the front of the canvas.</li>
    <li>Don’t apply a lot of thick paint. Thick, heavy layers of impasto are much less permanent than thin layers (about the thickness of a layer of house paint). Several thin layers (allowed to dry in between) are much more permanent than one thick layer. A few expressive blobs of impasto here and there are not going to cause problems, but large areas of thick paint are bad.</li>
    <li>Linseed forms the strongest paint film of the drying oils. Walnut is less strong. Safflower and poppy are weaker still. Because the same stuff that makes the paint film strong also yellows, linseed will yellow more than other oils. But go for a walk through a museum with paintings three or four hundred years old. You probably don’t find yourself thinking, “Wow! those paintings now suck because they’ve yellowed.” (Ignore Brown School paintings from the 17th and 18th centuries that were deliberately painted with an overall dull yellowish tone.) You can barely notice the yellowing, and those paintings were almost all done in linseed. Whites are a little warm, blues turn slightly greenish. That’s how bad the yellowing gets on a well-made painting. It’s barely noticeable, although some paint manufacturers will try to scare you into buying special “non-yellowing” paints made with oils that are less strong. Personally, I only use paints made with linseed and, to a lesser degree, walnut. I avoid paints made with poppy and safflower. If you do use safflower oil, be aware that the kind you can get in a grocery store is almost certainly not the kind that dries properly when mixed with oil paint.</li>
    <li>There are a number of good reasons to avoid student grade paint, but archival permanence is not one of them. Student grade paint from a good company will be as archival as their artist-grade paint.</li>
    <li>It is best to not add anything to your paint—no mediums, no solvents, no nothing. If you do add stuff to the paint, add only a little bit (less than 20% of paint volume). If you add solvents, don’t make the paint watery or washy, just add enough to make the paint more manageable. If you apply a layer of medium to the surface of a dried layer of paint before you paint over it, make it a very thin layer.</li>
    <li>It is best not to add metallic driers to make the paint dry more quickly. If you do add them, I think that lead napthenate is best. Add a tiny amount (like one drop from a toothpick) to a penny-sized blob of paint on your palette. Add driers only to the slow-drying pigments on your palette.</li>
    <li>In my opinion, it has not yet been demonstrated whether alkyd painting mediums (Liquin, Galkyd, Neo-Meglip, and so on) are sufficiently permanent. They are probably fine for single layer, direct painting. I’ve heard a couple of complaints about delamination in multi-layered paintings that may be due to use of alkyds. Some alkyd mediums can also yellow quite a bit. Personally, I don’t see any reason to paint with anything that smells like that.</li>
    <li>If you add solvents and oils to your paint, and you work in layers, it’s best to follow the fat over lean rule. That just means that no layer should have less oil in it than the layer beneath it. So be careful about how you use mediums and avoid painting large areas of lean paints (without much oil in them) like manganese violet over large areas of fat paints (with a lot of oil in them) like ivory black. The fat over lean rule is especially important if you paint in thick layers. In thin layers, it’s still a good idea, but less crucial.</li>
    <li>Varnish the painting after it is dry. By dry, I mean three months to a year after completion, depending on how thick the paint is.</li>
</ul>

<p>Few painters (including me) work according to these guidelines all the time, and yet their paintings don’t generally fall apart rapidly. Oil painting is fairly forgiving, so long as you respect your materials and stay within a reasonable zone of craftsmanship. So long as you do that, there isn’t any reason to worry about archival permanence unless the voices in your head are very insistent that you are going to be the next Michelangelo.</p>

<p>Personally, I doubt that the art conservation robots in the Louvre in the year 2306 will curse my name because I used sub-standard methods requiring them to spend an extra 324.663 seconds fixing one of my paintings. But that would be really cool.</p>

<p><hr /></p>

<p><em>Update 10/23/06:</em> One other point regarding how to construct paintings that will last. If you paint in multiple layers, make sure that each layer adheres to the one below it. A paint layer that is smooth and shiny is not a good surface for painting over, because the next layer of paint has no mechanical tooth to adhere to. You may want to scuff up the surface with a green kitchen scrubee pad or, if you prefer, <a href="../2006/08/05/wet-sanding/">wet sand.</a> If you use a medium that contains a balsam such as Venice turpentine or Canada balsam, the paint will adhere better to the previous layer.</p>

</div>
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		<title>The damage done by incompetent bureaucracy at Lascaux</title>
		<link>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2008/07/06/the-damage-done-by-incompetent-bureaucracy-at-lascaux/</link>
		<comments>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2008/07/06/the-damage-done-by-incompetent-bureaucracy-at-lascaux/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 06 Jul 2008 16:49:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[art history]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Lascaux]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[prehistoric art]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/?p=509</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Some of the best paintings in the world were made long before the beginning of recorded history. Not all prehistoric art is great, but some of it is as brilliant and evocative as any art from any era. The cave art at Lascaux is an particularly inspired example. Over at his excellent Illustration Art blog, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Some of the best paintings in the world were made long before the beginning of recorded history. Not all prehistoric art is great, but some of it is as brilliant and evocative as any art from any era. The cave art at <a title="Lascaux" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lascaux" target="_blank">Lascaux</a> is an particularly inspired example.</p>

<p>Over at his excellent <a title="Illustration Art" href="http://illustrationart.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Illustration Art</a> blog, David Apatoff has a post—<a title="lunatics and bureaucrats" href="http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=12189014&amp;postID=4820477828320261971" target="_blank">“Lunatics and Bureaucrats”</a>—about various ways in which people damage art. One of his examples is the damage the French government has done to the images at Lascaux via an ill-planned air conditioning system and various attempts to fix it while covering their asses from any assessment of blame.</p>

<p>A person named Laurence Beasley runs an organization devoted to saving what can be saved at Lascaux. I would strongly recommend that you <a title="Lascaux petition" href="http://www.petitiononline.com/Lascaux/" target="_blank">sign the petition,</a> or even donate some cash, to support her cause.</p>
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		<title>Question about panels</title>
		<link>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2008/06/23/question-about-panels/</link>
		<comments>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2008/06/23/question-about-panels/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 23 Jun 2008 23:43:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[art history]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[art materials]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hide glue]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[panels]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[traditional gesso]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/?p=506</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[On the Q&#38;A page, Bethan writes, I am interested in the various substrates used by 15-16th century painters– specifically wood. Which species of wood was commonly used and how were the panels constructed? I am assuming they had to be constructed very well in order to have lasted centuries without warping– a problem I am [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>On the <span class="caps">Q&amp;A </span>page, Bethan writes,</p>

<blockquote><p>I am interested in the various substrates used by 15-16th century painters– specifically wood. Which species of wood was commonly used and how were the panels constructed? I am assuming they had to be constructed very well in order to have lasted centuries without warping– a problem I am currently having. I am using birch plywood with Gamblin’s Traditional Gesso.</p></blockquote>

<p>Bethan,</p>

<p>In the 15th and 16th centuries, artists typically used a local wood cut with the grain from the center of large trees. That kind of panel is hard to get these days. Italians liked woods such as poplar, cutting panels thick (up to an inch). Northern Europeans liked harder woods such as oak, which was usually cut thinner.</p>

<p>Panels were typically cut and planed to size, then seasoned for a year or more in the studio, with additional planing as needed as seasoning progressed. Modern authors often suggest finding seasoned high quality wood from old furniture or doors that might otherwise be discarded.</p>

<p>Warping is common with traditional gesso, since hide glue is very strong (stronger than most modern glues). I usually apply several coats of hide glue to the back of a panel to counteract the stress on the front. You can also gesso both sides equally. Some artists glue braces to the back of their panels, but that itself can cause problems. A carpenter can also construct a cradle using sliding dovetail joins which place less stress on the panel. You can find examples at www.realgesso.com.</p>

<p>I have found that birch plywood varies considerably in quality. It best to use furniture-grade or marine grade plywood rather than the stuff you find in any given home supply store. I also paint on tempered pressed wood panels (hardboard). These have been used since the early 20th century with mixed results. They are made differently now than they used to be, and the quality is variable. With care, it seems to work reasonably well. </p>

<p>Of course, the best panel material is high-grade aluminum honeycomb, but that’s incredibly expensive and hard to find. </p>

<p>Good luck!</p>
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		<title>Another tempera grassa recipe</title>
		<link>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2008/06/10/another-tempera-grassa-recipe/</link>
		<comments>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2008/06/10/another-tempera-grassa-recipe/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 11 Jun 2008 01:05:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[art books]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[art history]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[art materials]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[art technique]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[artists]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[oil painting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[painting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tempera]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[clove oil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[egg tempera painting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lead napthenate]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[painting materials]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Pietro Annigoni]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Renaissance]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tempera grassa]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[traditional painting methods]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/?p=501</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Those who’ve been reading here for awhile or have delved into the archives know that I’ve sometimes experimented with a traditional painting medium called tempera grassa. TG was most commonly used in the 15th and 16th centuries; it represents a transitional medium between egg tempera and true oil painting. TG consists of pigment mixed with [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Those who’ve been reading here for awhile or have delved into the archives know that I’ve sometimes experimented with a traditional painting medium called <a href="http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2006/07/17/tempera-grassa-1/">tempera grassa.</a> TG was most commonly used in the 15th and 16th centuries; it represents a transitional medium between egg tempera and true oil painting. TG consists of pigment mixed with an emulsion of egg and oil. Since the 16th century, TG has been fairly obscure—the best recent example would be the 20th century Italian master, <a title="Pietro Annigonni" href="http://www.artrenewal.org/asp/database/art.asp?aid=191" target="_blank">Pietro Annigoni.</a></p>

<p>In the 19th century (especially in Germany), painting recipes were developed that involved various combinations of tempera ingredients, often including some combination of egg white, whole egg, linseed oil, stand oil, dammar varnish, stand oil, and turpentine. You can find many such recipes on the internet with a few simple Google searches. I’ve usually avoided these relatively complex recipes in favor of simple emulsions of egg yolk (the traditional binder for egg tempera) and linseed or walnut oil, mixed with pigment/water paste.</p>

<p>Recently, I ran across a <a title="book on tempera painting" href="http://www.classicalworkshop.com/html_books/egtemp/" target="_blank">web reprint</a> of <em>Egg Tempera Painting, Tempera Underpainting, Oil Emulsion Painting: A Manual of Technique,</em> by Vaclav Vitlacyl and Rupert Davidson Turnbull. Published in 1935, it is a compendium of various tempera techniques. One that caught my eye is a recipe they call “putrido.” Putrido is one name for tempera grassa (because it starts to smell bad after a few days). They say that this is based on a recipe from an old manuscript found in Venice. For all I know it’s what was used in the Renaissance.</p>

<blockquote><p>Take whatever quantity of dry color you wish to prepare. Divide it into two equal parts. Rub up one part with <em>yolk</em> of egg <em>only</em> into a fairly stiff paste. Rub up the other part with sun-bleached linseed oil, to about the consistency of ordinary tube colours. (To save time or trouble, it is possible to use ordinary tube oil colours, but to be sure of your ingredients, it is always advisable to grind your own colour in oil.) The part that is rubbed up with oil may be slightly larger in quantity than the part rubbed with yolk of egg. Then take the two parts so prepared and grind them together, preferably on the marble slab. It will be found that when these two parts are put together, the resultant mixture will stiffen at once into a very stiff paste, too stiff to be easily rubbed. This may be softened down by the addition of either water, emulsion, or linseed oil. If you wish to use the Putrido in its leaner form, add either water or the emulsion (Medium Fat Emulsion), but if you wish to paint with it as an oil paint using oil as the medium, then thin it down with oil. In either case, add the water, the emulsion, or the oil very slowly, only a few drops at a time, until the paste becomes a smooth cream easily handled on the marble slab.</p></blockquote>

<p>I find this to be pretty interesting. It is a recipe that is similar to what I’ve done before, is simple to make, doesn’t involve solvents, and uses egg yolk (rather than the white or the whole egg), with which I am more familiar. They suggest that adding a small amount of oil of clove will preserve the paint mixture and allow it to be kept for some time (although not indefinitely). I expect that storing them in a refrigerator, especially in warm weather, would be a good idea. The oil of clove would also act as a retarder for the oil component of the paint, causing to dry more slowly. That could be a good or a bad thing, but I expect one would have to wait between layers for the paint to dry. You could try to balance the retarding effect of the clove oil by adding a small amount of lead napthenate, but that makes for a more complex reaction than I am really comfortable with.</p>

<p>I’ll have to try this recipe soon. I have a large painting that I started in tempera and then stopped work on. It might make an excellent underpainting for this TG recipe.</p>
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		<title>A portrait by Memling</title>
		<link>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2008/04/05/a-portrait-by-memling/</link>
		<comments>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2008/04/05/a-portrait-by-memling/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 06 Apr 2008 02:13:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[art history]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[artists]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hans Memling]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[portrait]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/?p=469</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hans Memling (ca. 1440–1494) was one of the great portraitists of the 15th century. Clearly influenced by the pioneering Netherlandish oil painters from the earlier part of the century—Robert Campin, Jan van Eyck, Rogier van der Weyen—Memling concentrated on formal rendering of detail. This one is “Portrait of a Young Man,” ca. 185–90, oil on [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a class="imageright" href="http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/04/30young.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-470" title="Memling--Portrait of a Young Man" src="http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/04/30young-109x150.jpg" alt="" width="109" height="150" /></a>Hans Memling (ca. 1440–1494) was one of the great portraitists of the 15th century. Clearly influenced by the pioneering Netherlandish oil painters from the earlier part of the century—Robert Campin, Jan van Eyck, Rogier van der Weyen—Memling concentrated on formal rendering of detail. This one is “Portrait of a Young Man,” ca. 185–90, oil on panel, 11.5 × 8.7”. Although there is relatively little form modeling of flesh tones, you still get a sense of personality and “aliveness.”</p>
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		<title>On the reading list</title>
		<link>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2008/02/17/what-im-reading/</link>
		<comments>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2008/02/17/what-im-reading/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 17 Feb 2008 13:12:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[art books]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[art history]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[drawing]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2008/02/17/what-im-reading/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Drawing in Early Renaissance Italy: Revised Edition by Francis Ames-Lewis. It’s a good summary of drawing in the period. Lots of illustrations, a good summary of period drawing materials and methods, and an extensive discussion of how the practice of drawing evolved in Italy in the period leading up to the High Renaissance.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0300079818?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=allthestrange-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=0300079818">Drawing in Early Renaissance Italy: Revised Edition</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=allthestrange-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=0300079818" style="border-width: initial !important; border-color: initial !important; border-style: none !important; margin: 0px !important" border="0" height="1" width="1" /> by Francis Ames-Lewis. It’s a good summary of drawing in the period. Lots of illustrations, a good summary of period drawing materials and methods, and an extensive discussion of how the practice of drawing evolved in Italy in the period leading up to the High Renaissance.</p>
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		<title>Sanguine</title>
		<link>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2008/02/10/sanguine/</link>
		<comments>http://rourkevisualart.com/wordpress/2008/02/10/sanguine/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 11 Feb 2008 02:38:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[art history]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[art materials]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[drawing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Michelangelo]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[old masters]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Renaissance]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Sanguine is a hematite chalk used in Renaissance drawing. Michaelangelo’s preparatory drawings in sanguine are stunning. Over at Lines and Colors, there’s a post on sanguine drawing. There’s also a link to this brief tutorial.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Sanguine is a hematite chalk used in Renaissance drawing. Michaelangelo’s preparatory drawings in sanguine are stunning.</p>

<p>Over at Lines and Colors, there’s a post on <a href="http://www.linesandcolors.com/2008/02/06/sanguine-drawing/">sanguine drawing.</a> There’s also a link to <a href="http://www.drawingboard.org/viewtopic.php?t=58097">this brief tutorial.</a></p>
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