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In painting with oil, it’s standard to use white to lighten mixtures. White (whether lead white, titanium white, or zinc white) is incredibly useful as there are many colors that can’t be obtained without it. Contrariwise, there are also colors that can’t be mixed if you use white. White lightens, but it also cools (in most circumstances), decreases chroma (except when applied in small amounts with some cool colors), and increases opacity. There are some circumstances in which you want to lighten (increase the color’s value) without the other effects of adding white. For example:

• In traditional oil painting technique, it is often appropriate to keep shadows transparent. That basically means mixing shadow colors without any white.
• Because white usually decreases chroma, mixtures involving white can be lower in chroma than you want. As a result, painters sometimes complain of paint mixtures that are too “chalky.” They get lights that have a pastel look with low chroma. While that is sometimes exactly the right color (in which case no one complains) we sometimes want lights that are as high in chroma as possible.

While oil painters don’t generally depend on white-freen paint mixtures to nearly the degree that watercolor painters do, it’s important to know how to paint without white when you need to. If you just need a dark color, that’s easy. If you need to paint a range of values, then you’ll need to find mixtures that achieve that value range. The ease of doing so depends on what part of the color wheel you’re working with.

There are plenty of high-value yellows, for example. If you need to lighten a yellow or brown mixture, you can usually do so by mixing in a lighter yellow (I like lead-tin yellow for this purpose, or a cadmium yellow if I’m looking for higher chroma). Reds are more difficult—it’s hard to mix a light red without dropping the chroma (i.e., making it pink). Genuine vermillion is sometimes useful because it is somewhat light and doesn’t drop chroma in mixtures the way cadmiums of similar color can do. Oranges can be lightened by adding a lighter yellow and then, if necessary, adjusting back to the right hue with a bit of red. A yellow green can similarly be lightened with yellow.

Cooler colors (blue, green, blue-green, purple) are more difficult to lighten, since the tube colors in this range are often pretty dark. Some cobalt blues can be relatively light and therefore quite valuable (although they are also opaque, so they don’t help as much if you are looking for transparency).

The other solution, of course, is to paint thinly onto a white surface, just as in traditional watercolor. The method used by Ted Seth Jacobs and his students such as Tony Ryder, for example, typically begins with a “color wash.” That means applying the first layer of paint very thinly, mixed with dilutant. While wet, the color can be lightened by wiping away paint with a dry rag or brush; or one dipped in dilutant. In this method, the initial color wash layer is later painted over with opaque paint mixed with white. A similar method can be used with traditional glazing technique or when a certainly watercolor-ish look is desired.

If you’re not used to painting without white, a good exercise is to try to complete a painting while using white only when absolutely necessary. That can generate an overall range of value and chroma that is markedly different than a painting in which white is used liberally. If you struggle with “chalky” mixtures, a minimal white approach can really help.

• I’ve been very busy with work, helping to raise a three year old, and taking an online graduate course.
• I’ve been finishing up the large commission I started over the summer, and I have allowed that to kind of block my ability to do other painting. That’s just about done, however, so it’s time to move on.

I had a whole day off today, so I took the opportunity to start a new painting.

This is “Layover.” It’s 20 × 20”, oil on linen primed with lead white, toned with red earth and raw umber. This is a monochromatic underpainting—a grisaille—which will be glazed over once it’s dry. I used various mixtures of Doak’s flake 1c and Natural Pigments black earth (an iron oxide black).

The key is a little too dark for optimal glazing (since glazes tends to darken what they cover). That means I’ll need to paint into the glaze with white to get the lights up.

I’ll keep you posted on this, and I’ll try not to let such a long time pass before putting up other stuff. Unfortunately, posting will probably be intermittent for the foreseeable future.

This is a commissioned piece. The customer wants a painting of this pair of jeans (supplied by him) against a black background. We went back and forth on the composition, eventually settling on making it look as if they were being worn by an invisible person. That entailed hiring a model to wear the jeans as I paint, since I’m pretty bad at working from photos.

As you can see, I’m working my way down. I mixed and tubed a base color and applied that as an initial dead coloring layer. I am working on top of that. Right now, the jeans are hung in midair so that I can paint the inside parts. The customer wanted to capture the iconic nature of Levis 501’s, so the inside tags—especially the one that will have a bright red 501 on it—are important.

I’ll try to post better pictures later on.

I like how it’s coming at the moment. In some ways this is an interesting and exciting project, and in others it will be really good to get this done, as it also represents a block on my other work.

• The easiest way to stretch a large canvas evenly seems to be to put it on the stretcher unprimed, somewhat loosely. How loose? Put the canvas on the floor flat under the stretcher. Tack the edges of the canvas to the back of the stretcher without pulling. You then size it with a thin layer of hide glue. The glue tightens the canvas. If you do it right, the canvas is taut with no wrinkles. This is easier than trying to get it right using canvas pliers and trying to make the tension even across the whole canvas.
• I like using regular office thumb tacks initially, followed by staples or copper tacks when you know you’ve got the tension exactly right.
• The lead oil primer made by Natural Pigments is very easy to apply. It is much less viscous than other oil primers I’ve tried. That means you don’t have to thin it and it’s less likely to get all over the place. It dries to the touch very fast. A potential downside is that it doesn’t tend to fill the weave of the canvas like thicker primers do.
• It’s good practice to rub the surface of the canvas lightly with a pumice stone before sizing in order to open the fibers up somewhat to accept the glue. If you do this, however, you will create small blobs of fabric in places. After priming, you’ll need to wet sand or use a knife to cut these away.
• Upper Canada Stretchers makes really good stretchers. Check out the discounts for good deals.

Because the structure of an oil painting is inherently complex, it’s always best to attempt keep both it and its various components as simple as possible. However, this element of simplicity should not necessarily extend to purchasing ready-made materials if the hope or expectation is to create higher quality work: generic materials have a strong tendency to produce generic work. While boutique materials are usually higher quality, this is not necessarily the case with the oil. And they still don’t impart the vital information about the nuts and bolts of the craft: at the end of the day, there is no real process, just a set of purchases, a pseudo-craft.

Go read the whole thing.

The whitest white I’ve been able to find is “radiant white” by Gamblin. It’s titanium white in poppy oil. Most of the time I prefer paints ground in linseed or walnut, but for this purpose it makes sense to use the whitest possible pigment and the most colorless binder available. I’m still painting out test strips on a neutral gray background, but I’d guess it’s a quarter Munsell value step than the next brightest titanium white I’ve played with. I’ll use it only when I need a very light highlight.

The darkest black I have is Williamsburg intense black. The pigment is listed as “carbon from gas flame.” The back label says: “warning: very slow drying.” It is just noticeably darker than bone (“ivory”) black. The slow drying can be compensated for somewhat with a drier such as lead napthenate. I will use it only for dark accents at the very last stage of painting, so drying time for this particular paint is not that important for me.

Update

2 May 2009:_ There’s a small highlight that I had previously painted in Old Holland titanium white. It’s light reflected from the shiny metal part of a clothes hangar. In real life this highlight is very noticeable, but on the painting, surrounded by relatively light tones, it did not stand out at all. I recently painted it in using pure Gamblin radiant white. It is noticeably brighter than before—giving an effect that is much more like what I was trying to depict.

“Red Laces,” oil on canvas, 11 × 14”.

This is “Newbury Street,” oil on panel, 20 × 20”. Many artists shy away from the square picture format, because it can be hard to achieve a dynamic composition within such a stable frame. I worked on overcoming that within a simple “bullseye” composition with a bit of tension between the jacket and its shadow. I think I succeeded fairly well with that.

The panel, which I had primed with lead white, had been curing for more than six months. Different sources suggest different amounts of time to let an oil ground cure; anywhere from a couple of weeks to several months. I can say that this well-cured surface was excellent to work on.

Click on a thumbnail to see the full-sized image.

I started with an underpainting using a mixture of raw umber mixed with a small amount of Studio Products Tuscan red (a bright iron oxide pigment). Unusually for me, I used the wipeout technique for the underpainting. I did that by smearing on a bunch of thinned paint in any given area, then wiping it back. I used a mixture of mineral spirits and linseed oil, with a bit of turps. Then I used a bristle bright brush to wipe the paint back. A bright is good for this because the short bristles allow for easy scrubbing. The idea is to wipe the paint away, letting the white ground show through in the lights and letting the paint stay thick in the darks.

Normally, I avoid the wipe out technique because I don’t think that thinning paint down a lot is a good idea—it can generate a paint layer that is not properly bound in the oil vehicle. However, because the oil primed surface was smooth and not absorbent, I found that I only needed to thin the paint down just a bit in order to use the wipe out method effectively. It allowed me to easily get the structure of the painting down quickly and easily, and to correct errors easily using a rag dipped in thinner. Because there was some linseed oil in the thinner, the final result was a surface that was clearly well-bound, as I could not easily scratch it with a fingernail or rub any pigment off.

Once that was dry (within a day, due to the siccative properties of the raw umber), I painted in the background and shadow. That took a few days to dry. Then I applied a very thin layer of Studio Products glazing medium to the surface of the painting and began working my way over the painting, attempting to paint something close to the final effect in each area before moving on to the next. That took several painting sessions.

This has been illustrated for me this week. The background of the painting I’m working on is a gradation of mostly lead white to lead white with a fair bit of raw umber. Raw umber dries quickly and promotes drying when it is a component of any mixture. Over the course of several days, I’ve observed the painting dry progressively from one edge to the other—the more raw umber, the faster the drying. The lead white part of the painting has not dried quickly at all.

Modern lead whites are made with a pigment called “basic lead carbonate.” Historically, lead whites were less pure. They contained basic lead carbonate, as well as other lead compounds that do dry fairly quickly. So older lead whites, such as those made using the traditional stack process, would likely act as driers. It may be that if you bought some stack process lead white from Natural Pigments and mulled it with oil, you’d have a fast drying white.

Other than that, you can make lead white dry more quickly by adding a small amount of lead napthenate or other drier, just as with any other oil paint. Or you can mix in some umber.