mixing pairs

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M. Graham cadmium red (a cad. red light), M. Graham lamp black, and Rembrandt titanium white.

I posted a swatch yesterday with vermilion and lamp black. Although vermilion and cad. red look very similar, they mix quite differently with black. When mixed with black, cad. red makes dull purples rather than dull mauves as vermilion does.

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Doak genuine vermilion, M. Graham lamp black, and Rembrandt titanium white. I had intended to use ivory black, but found that I used all of my ivory tubing up neutral darks. The color would be pretty much the same with ivory black.

When mixed with black, vermilion tends toward a dull mauve, which can be quite useful.

mixing pair: vermillion and lamp black

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Studio Products ultramarine blue, Doak burnt sienna, Rembrandt titanium white.

I mix these two often. They are not exact complements, but they form a useful set of neutrals. It is particularly helpful that you can get a very dark neutral from them, which I often find to be a good substitute for black.

Update

21 June 2008: For lighter neutrals (grays) I tend to use ultramarine and raw sienna, which makes a more pure neutral. But for darks, burnt sienna and ultramarine is the way to go.

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Here’s another great pair of complements: pyrol ruby and viridian. Both of these are from Robert Doak. Pyrol ruby is a fairly transparent modern organic lake pigment with a color similar to alizarin crimson. It is quite permanent. Viridian is semi-transparent and slightly on the bluer side of green.

The ruby is a much stronger tinter than viridian. They mix to a very dark neutral that can substitute for black.

pyrol ruby and viridian

I strongly encourage any painter to do these kinds of experiments with all combinations of the paints they typically keep on their palette.

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This is Williamsburg Italian burnt sienna and Old Holland ultramarine blue. I’ve previously provided a sample using raw sienna and ultramarine blue; I’ve noted before that some pigments have more than one mixing complement. While the raw sienna/ultramarine combo is slightly greenish, the burnt sienna/ultramarine is more neutral. It also produces darker darks.

burnt sienna and ultramarine blue

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Cadmium red and cadmium greenThese two colors neutralize to make a series of useful gray-browns. Cadmium green is not, of course, a pigment. Instead, paint tubes labeled cad green are usually a convenience mixture of cadmium yellow and pthalo blue. I like the version made by Williamsburg. It’s a useful yellow green that’s strongly chromatic, but not overpowering the way pthalo green is, for example. You can mix it yourself, of course. In the sample above, the red is cadmium red medium, by Doak. In mixing, the cadmium red is stronger than the green, so you need more green than red to make a neutral hue.

Although I have more recently been working with an earth palette, I have used cad red + cad green as the basis for flesh tones in a number of figure paintings. Mixed with white, you can create a string of useful caucasian flesh colors. A little extra green makes for good shadows (depending on the light), while a little more red is good for people who have a tan or are naturally more ruddy. But it’s especially good for people with pale complexions, since you can get a good low chroma orange-brown that looks just right for that purpose.

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Raw sienna & ultramarine blueThis is the first in a series of posts, each of which will discuss one useful pair of complementary colors. If you’re not familiar with art terms, “complementary” in this case doesn’t refer to saying nice things about each other, but colors on opposite sides of the color wheel. Complementary pairs of colors are useful because they typically mix to create neutral and near neutral colors. Since most of nature is composed of neutrals, any painter who is interested in subtlety instead of LOOK AT MY BRIGHT BRIGHT COLORS! needs to learn about working with neutrals. (Not that there isn’t a place for high-chroma colors, but I think they are best used with restraint.)

My favorite complementary mixing pair is raw sienna and ultramarine blue. With them, you can mix a lovely range of cool blues, warm browns, and neutral grays. These colors don’t call undue attention to themselves, but they harmonize well with each other and with a wide range of other pigments. It’s a valuable exercise to do a whole painting with just these two colors and white; you’ll be amazed at how much you can do with them. I’ve done lots of paintings in which those two colors predominate, staying in the background and setting the stage to allow other, brighter colors to stand out beautifully. Since both of them vary a bit from manufacturer to manufacturer, it’s worth comparing a few of each with each other. At the moment, in oil, I use Williamsburg Italian raw sienna and Studio Products ultramarine. They mix very well together.

Update

Williamsburg also sells their Italian raw sienna as a pigment; it’s the nicest raw sienna I’ve seen.

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