Originally posted 20 September 2006.
Month after month, this is the single most popular post on this site. It seems that lots of people are using search engines to answer this question.

Making and Thinking About Visual Art
You are currently browsing articles tagged painting materials.
Originally posted 20 September 2006.
Month after month, this is the single most popular post on this site. It seems that lots of people are using search engines to answer this question.
Tags: lead napthenate, lead white, Maroger medium, oil painting, painting materials
It’s autumn in New England, so I’ve been catching up on varnishing. Why now? Because I have some paintings that have been sitting around for awhile, and because the warm weather is over. That means the humidity is gone. It’s always much better to varnish when the air is very dry. Moisture increases the chances of bloom, in which the varnish becomes slightly milky.
Yes, you do. Oil paintings need varnish to protect them from being damaged by particulate matter in the air. Varnish also serves to even out the gloss produced by different pigments and to slightly darken the darks, increasing contrast and giving the painting a bit of extra “pop.” Read the rest of this entry »
Tags: oil painting, painting materials, varnish
Here’s how:
Is this as good, archivally, as stretching and priming the canvas from scratch? No, it is not. Is it a really bad idea? I don’t see why it would be any worse than painting straight onto acrylic-primed canvas.
It makes a very smooth, nonabsorbent, lovely surface to paint on.
Over time, all paintings deteriorate. Badly made paintings deteriorate quickly, sometimes within a year or two of completion. A painting made with a high level of craftsmanship can last for many years before noticeable changes occur.
For most of us, it isn’t worth going to extreme lengths to make our paintings as permanent as they can possibly be. You could, for example, choose to paint on high-tech aluminum honeycomb panels. These are light, long-lasting, and much better supports for painting than most of those used by artists, because they don’t significantly expand or contract with changes in temperature and humidity. They also cost hundreds or thousands of dollars. If you know that you are a visionary artist who will be producing work of breathtaking magnificence that will be of incredible historic significance, you owe it to future generations to eat only cheap prepackaged noodle dishes at each meal so that you can afford to paint on the most permanent and expensive supports (until you work starts to sell for many thousands of dollars—then, go ahead and treat yourself to a nice juicy tofu burger).
Read the rest of this entry »Tags: oil painting, painting materials, painting methods, traditional painting methods
Do go check out Tad Spurgeon’s excellent site. Since the last time I had been there, he’s really fleshed out a method for making “putty” with various heat bodied oils and different chalks. These putties form a thick, dull grey medium that is mixed with regular paint to adjust it’s transparency and handling characteristics. Although the putty is grey all by itself, it has no color when mixed with regular pigmented oil paint.
Painters such as Velazquez and Rembrandt routinely added such materials to their paint. Tad seems well on his way to recreating some of their methods.
Aside from this, Tad has lots of great info on oil painting, including a well-written and useful introduction for beginners. Go there now.
Tags: oil painting, painting materials, putty, Tad Spurgeon, traditional painting methods
Those who’ve been reading here for awhile or have delved into the archives know that I’ve sometimes experimented with a traditional painting medium called tempera grassa. TG was most commonly used in the 15th and 16th centuries; it represents a transitional medium between egg tempera and true oil painting. TG consists of pigment mixed with an emulsion of egg and oil. Since the 16th century, TG has been fairly obscure—the best recent example would be the 20th century Italian master, Pietro Annigoni.
In the 19th century (especially in Germany), painting recipes were developed that involved various combinations of tempera ingredients, often including some combination of egg white, whole egg, linseed oil, stand oil, dammar varnish, stand oil, and turpentine. You can find many such recipes on the internet with a few simple Google searches. I’ve usually avoided these relatively complex recipes in favor of simple emulsions of egg yolk (the traditional binder for egg tempera) and linseed or walnut oil, mixed with pigment/water paste.
Recently, I ran across a web reprint of Egg Tempera Painting, Tempera Underpainting, Oil Emulsion Painting: A Manual of Technique, by Vaclav Vitlacyl and Rupert Davidson Turnbull. Published in 1935, it is a compendium of various tempera techniques. One that caught my eye is a recipe they call “putrido.” Putrido is one name for tempera grassa (because it starts to smell bad after a few days). They say that this is based on a recipe from an old manuscript found in Venice. For all I know it’s what was used in the Renaissance.
Take whatever quantity of dry color you wish to prepare. Divide it into two equal parts. Rub up one part with yolk of egg only into a fairly stiff paste. Rub up the other part with sun-bleached linseed oil, to about the consistency of ordinary tube colours. (To save time or trouble, it is possible to use ordinary tube oil colours, but to be sure of your ingredients, it is always advisable to grind your own colour in oil.) The part that is rubbed up with oil may be slightly larger in quantity than the part rubbed with yolk of egg. Then take the two parts so prepared and grind them together, preferably on the marble slab. It will be found that when these two parts are put together, the resultant mixture will stiffen at once into a very stiff paste, too stiff to be easily rubbed. This may be softened down by the addition of either water, emulsion, or linseed oil. If you wish to use the Putrido in its leaner form, add either water or the emulsion (Medium Fat Emulsion), but if you wish to paint with it as an oil paint using oil as the medium, then thin it down with oil. In either case, add the water, the emulsion, or the oil very slowly, only a few drops at a time, until the paste becomes a smooth cream easily handled on the marble slab.
I find this to be pretty interesting. It is a recipe that is similar to what I’ve done before, is simple to make, doesn’t involve solvents, and uses egg yolk (rather than the white or the whole egg), with which I am more familiar. They suggest that adding a small amount of oil of clove will preserve the paint mixture and allow it to be kept for some time (although not indefinitely). I expect that storing them in a refrigerator, especially in warm weather, would be a good idea. The oil of clove would also act as a retarder for the oil component of the paint, causing to dry more slowly. That could be a good or a bad thing, but I expect one would have to wait between layers for the paint to dry. You could try to balance the retarding effect of the clove oil by adding a small amount of lead napthenate, but that makes for a more complex reaction than I am really comfortable with.
I’ll have to try this recipe soon. I have a large painting that I started in tempera and then stopped work on. It might make an excellent underpainting for this TG recipe.
Tags: clove oil, egg tempera painting, lead napthenate, painting materials, Pietro Annigoni, Renaissance, tempera grassa, traditional painting methods
Recent comments